Syndrome Stendhal, Josine Visser
During Paris Fashion Week the latest ArtEZ Fashion Masters graduates took over the Galerie Joseph in the city’s 3rd arrondissement for two days to showcase a new form of presentation featuring photography and multimedia.
Under the artistic direction of creative team Freudenthal/Verhagen, the catwalk show was abandoned in favour of a new style of display, with each graduate from the Fashion Institute Arnhem allotted a space in the gallery in which to create a room setting that captured the spirit of their collection.
Josine Visser’s collection Syndrome Stendhal is inspired the psychosomatic syndrome affecting tourists overdosing on art, especially from the Italian Renaissance. Josine says “Fascinated by this syndrome….I play with strong contrasts, creating a new world in the in between no man’s land, which was the starting point of my collection. Elements and decorations from the Renaissance period are incorporated into this collection, brought to life into 2-dimensional and 3-dimensional by fabrics and constructions, using intense colours like cobalt blue, saturated moss green, faded purple and bruised orange; creating a similar confusing and dazzling atmosphere.”
Morphogenesis, Pauline van Dongen
For her collection Morphogenesis, Pauline van Dongen tells us ‘I am fascinated by the interaction between people and their surroundings; body versus space; the order and arrangement of things around me. My work focuses on the surface, with fabric as a starting point…My work explores the void between the body and the garment. Different materials like synthetic crin and buntal (palm straw) emphasise this space. Alienating shapes or capsules floating around the body are turned into clothes, like organic sculptures. Metal knitwear and the contrast between dark shades and bright tops create a sharp, minimalistic feel.”
Collusion of Angles, Janneke Verhoeven
Collusion of Angles by Janneke Verhoeven is all about geometry. “Searching for a way to integrate structures in my work, I used the geometric forms of the tangram puzzle. Shapes are created around the body with either flowing or rigid forms. Flowing lines are interrupted or disturbed by angles. They make parts of the garments protrude from the body, creating unexpected shapes with a renewed elegance. The body is loosely wrapped in large geometric forms.
“The materials resulted in a collision between natural fabrics such as felt wool, silks, leathers and synthetic materials such as transparent polyester and polished surfaces. The shoes were developed with a wooden structure inspired by the Kapla principle in collaboration with Miriam van Weeghel. The rigid heel structure forms an aligned collusion with the fluent lines formed in the garments.”
Josine, Pauline and Janneke all graduated with a BA in Fashion Design from ArtEZ in 2008.
Hobohemian Heaven, Oda Pausma
Oda Pausma’s Hobohemian Heaven is inspired by The Chelsea Hotel New York. Oda explains, “Where the rebel crouched by a creation of a shoulder pleat, the poet’s character is distorted by a rebelliously forward forced hip. Curtains vigorously hauled from their rods, mostly made of silks, give the collection a poetic touch. The specific pleat of the curtain is carried by the gems of the collection, a curtain hook galvanised in gold. Hobohemian Heaven: the roof over poetry and rebellion.” Oda continued her studies after completing a ‘Fashion & Design’ (BA) at the Amsterdam Fashion Institute (AMFI).
Rebecca Ward studied in New Zealand and then at Central Saint Martins College of Art & Design before her MA in Arnhem. Her collection Physiognomy explores how the mind can influence the body and our perception of how the body should look.
Physiognomy, Rebecca Ward; The Sad Parade, Nick Rosenboom; Passer by, Remember, Franciscus van der Meer
Nick Rosenboom first studied for a BA at ArtEZ and his collection The Sad Parade is influenced by the media’s preoccupation with self-harm. “Searching for existence, slicing into skin, our veins are represented and translated onto textiles printed with a psychedelic wood grain texture.”
Franciscus van der Meer came from a BA in Fashion at the Gerrit Rietveld Academie in Amsterdam and his collection Passer by, Remember takes its inspiration from the threat of the increasing right-wing political activity in Europe. Jiska van Rossum previously studied at the Utrecht School of the Arts and the collection Adorned in Elegance plays with unexpected glimpses of bare skin in classic pieces of clothing.
Image credits: black/white model photography by Sanne Peper; Gallery photography by Peter Stigter.
ArtEZ Fashion Masters
GENERATION 11
Freudenthal/Verhagen
Josine Visser
Pauline van Dongen
Janneke Verhoeven
Miriam van Weeghel
Oda Pausma
Rebecca Ward: rebeccajward@gmail.com
Nick Rosenboom
Franciscus van der Meer
Jiska van Rossum
