Enuvierhire Sophia Orere, University of East London
The University of East London (UEL) opened Graduate Fashion Week in triumphant style, proving that the forthcoming Olympics isn’t the only reason why eyes should be firmly fixed on the East of London.
ARTS THREAD favourite, Enuvierhire Sophia Orere presented an accomplished and beautifully finished collection inspired by historic Japanese armour and architecture. Kimono jackets were offset by structural, armoured sleeves and wide belted waists, while pleated, red wool dresses and flared trousers were layered with woven leather breastplates and fine silver chainmail. Traditional stacked shoes and embellished rods played tribute to Samurai warriors of the past.
Diane Gevorgian, University of East London
Diane Gevorgian was inspired by a set of metal roosters she bought from a car boot sale to create her avant-garde collection with a gothic twist. Fitted, black leather jackets, dresses and high-waisted trousers featured elaborate scrolling cut-aways inserted with lightweight organza, while footwear was weighed down with heavy metallic decorations reminiscent of golden bird wings. Covetable pieces included a panelled, black leather jacket with theatrical bustle, pointed shoulders and metallic detailing.
Bunmi Olaye, University of East London
Female empowerment and domination were at the core of Bunmi Olaye’s tribal designs. Inspired by the cultural fusions between Nigeria and Great Britain, Olaye’s warrior women represent the Ekpe, a secret society who invoke the spirit of the leopard. Patterned wovens in varying scales and kaleidoscopic digital prints featured in a dominant palette of white, black, red and burnt ochre. Silhouettes drew inspiration from the structured, Victorian shapes of Scottish missionaries, offset with playful, oversized pom-poms, bells, tassels and opulent feather headdresses.
Charlotte Macke, University of East London
Charlotte Macke continued the warrior theme with clean, bionic lines portraying modern women as powerful urban heroes. Inspired by plate armour her all black collection veered from strong, protective panelling to sheer silhouettes and delicate chainmail jewellery. Highlights included a strapless mini dress with macramé rope contours and jacket trimmed with tiers of delicate silver strands.
Holly Keepfer, University of East London
In contrast Holly Keepfer’s ethereal collection celebrated the softer side of the human body, drawing on microscopic images of hormones, the respiratory system and complex vein and artery networks to create beautiful, watery prints. Boxy, fringed jackets and white maxi dresses sported dip-dyed hems in inky blues and greens, while more structured shapes featured white thread strung between different points to create linear patterns.
Johanna Greenish, University of East London
Finally, Johanna Greenish closed the first show with her collection of whimsical black and white dresses and full skirts. Fairytale garments were constructed around the concept of folding and unfolding, with hand painted fabrics featuring watery lines and bold, geometric triangles.
Image credits: Photography by Simon Armstrong
