Maison Martin Margiela '20' The Exhibition
The ‘Maison Martin Margiela ’20′ The Exhibition’ at Somerset House, London presents the visionary work of one of fashions most inconic and contemporary designers. Highlighting Margiela’s innovative designs over the span of 20 years, the exhibition explores concepts of out-sized garments, non-traditional fabrics and the exposition of the construction of his clothes. Welcomed in by a white caravan, the unusual boutique interiors is imbued with the design house’s signature aesthetics; a monochromatic palette, the iconic numbered label, recycled materials and deconstruction.
Destroy collection, Tailoring shoulders collection
Amongst, Margiela’s deconstructive approach sits more refined and intricately tailored pieces. A graduate of Antwerp’s Royal Academy of Fine Arts and former design assistant to Jean Paul Gaultier, Margiela was first established in the 1980′s under his own label. The design house made a breakthrough with inconoclastic designs that juxtaposed the power dressing of the time. From the renowned narrow, puff sleeve jacket, Margiela continued to explore angles, boundaries and widths to constanly evolve and remould the power shoulder.
Trompe L'oeil collection, Tailoring process collection, Tabi shoes
The exhibition boasts an abundant collection of finely detailed tailored trenches, blazers, the revolutionary Tabi shoes and Trompe l’oeil (optical illusions). This collection carries a combustion of innovative textured prints to form dynamic effects of movement, pattern, texture, weight and transparency. With raw techniques of drapes, loops, tears, rips, distressed fabrics and unfinished and inverted hems/seams the exhibition continues to revel in the designer’s artistic and conceptual approach to fashion.
Assemblage, Duvet coat, Trompe L'oeil collection
Bursting with inspiring creativity, the multi layered exhibition incorporates installations, photography, video and film captivating the themes that underpin the essence of the fashion house.The elusive and understated brand has built its value and reputation solely on the innovation of Margiela’s designs. His unique vision established a central focus on the employment of deconstruction, proportion, incognito and avante-garde.
Through his use of digital media and unsual materials, the collections within the exhibition epitomises the aesthetics of Margiela’s vision. An amalgamation of a double-sided fur jacket reflected on a mirror, a duvet coat with a changing digital design, a range of deconstructive techniques and a collection of painted garments all resonate the radical new visual language Margiela speaks.
Currently exhibiting iconic pieces from the women and menswear collections and specially recreated garments, this major exhibition is a must see. Maison Martin Margiela 20 The Exhibition continues at Somerset House, Embankent Galleries until 5th September, 2010.
