Mariko Ferrier, HKU Utrecht
Platform was the name given by the fashion graduates of HKU Utrecht for their end of year show, held in the beautiful surroundings of the old-fashioned Winkel van Sinkel brasserie.
Mariko Ferrier’s collection was entitled The beauty of the ugly truth and came in a very beautiful array of pale apricot though to deep orange and persimmon tones. Chiffon is ruched and smocked into unexpected shapes, while fabrics are slashed close to the body to create ripples of movement. Strips of fur are held together by plaids, while skinny satin ribbons are sewn to produce a mass of colour.
The Metaphor of Skin was the name of Esther Vijftigschild’s collection and textures ranged from smooth satins though to coarser whirls of wool and multiple layered sections with cut-away sections. Rounded silhouettes with strange protrusion-like growths came in black and calico cream tones, accented by burnt orange and mocha.
Esther Vijftigschild, HKU Utrecht
Barbara Langendijk’s collection was named Me versus My identity and was inspired by he own shadow. Shiny velour acts as the ‘shadow’ against palest skin chiffon, while layered tulle creates ghostly effects. Metallic silver outline frames were worn by the models to accentuate the silhouette of body-con mini dresses. Matthias Louwen’s take on the retro space age took though us abstract prints with a feeling of stars and galaxies, in a palette of soft reds.
Barbara Langendijk, Barbara Langendijk, Matthias Louwen, HKU Utrecht
Throughout the show, the themes of “identity” and “shape” stand out. It is obvious that the individualism of our times has inspired the young designers to explore the various layers that constitute an identity. Notable was, for instance, fashion communication graduate Mark Stadman’s MARK? inspired by boy band stereotypes which, he argues, can be interpreted as the different elements of one personality. His collection varied from rock to hip hop.
Mark Stadman, HKU Utrecht
Gerda Postma’s IKKAI collection is a homage to vintage and the skills of home dressmaking, remaking old garments into new ones. Old quilts are being transformed into coats, while old furs are cut up and reworn as collars and cotton floral prints are remade with seams on the outside.
Gerda Postma, HKU Utrecht
On the feminine side of the spectrum came Jan Boelo Drenth’s wonderful dark collection Le Rescapé that seeks to empower women: kilometres of black tulle, a lot of tight leather and lots of elaborate details.
Image credits: Peter Stigter
