Even by the exemplary standards of the RCA, this was a terrifically strong show, with some exquisite workmanship, inventive structures and fabulous blasts of colour and pattern to be found in both menswear and womenswear.

Menswear was particularly outstanding this year, with Astrid Andersen’s terrific finale wowing the packed crowd, with her bold, refreshing and colourful take on menswear. Taking references from sport and street wear, Andersen creates strong, structural shapes. We loved her attention to detail, her vibrant use of colour and her overall vision of an exuberant, peacock male.

Another strong menswear statement came from Courtney McWilliams. Her fascination with ‘chavs’ led to her surreal printed pieces, including those featuring skinheads morphed into pit-bull-dogs. Oversized coats came in subverted ‘Burberry’ checks, and quirky printed ‘denim’ jackets, shorts and lace panelled leggings were all part of her unique mix.

Nabil El Nayal’s sculptural, monumental pieces were a highlight. Voluminous chiffon was manipulated into dramatic, flowing black structures, over tight silhouettes with huge ‘carved’ gothic decorations.

Marielle Van De Ven mixed strong shapes, and industrial metal detailing with delicate femininity for her womenswear. The choice of metallic petrol blue-grey, added to the feeling of ‘delicate strength’. Tiny metal hinges held together intricate strapping details, over layers of chiffon and organza.

Yuli Yuferev’s striking and dramatic womenswear featured metal ‘cage’ effects, and fine detailing on tight-fitting silhouettes.

Poppy Cartwright’s immaculately cut and embroidered detailing in white was sculpted over skin-tight shapes for women. Lacing and embroidery, and matt and high shine in virginal white created a great look.

Simone Sommer’s womenswear opened the show, and had set the standard with her beautiful blonde (vegetable) ‘leather’ pieces constructed from cut, narrow strips. Jackets with open weave, distressed, laddered structures were layered on top of delicate pale-flesh coloured sheer shirts and trousers.

Added impact came from a dramatic, fluid orange column dress.
Women’s knitwear designer Sara Bro-Jorgensen’s accomplished and inventive collection came next, with a fun trompe l’oeil jacquard ‘trench-coat’ design, spider-web fine pieces and precise, ‘ladder’ effects.

Caroline Pambakian’s knitwear was also outstanding. Contrasting textures in neutral shades were key elements, with beautiful, ultra-fine and sheer pieces alongside oversized chunky cable structures.

We also loved Trine Jensen’s colourful menswear with yellow, green and orange, tempered with navy. Some stellar pieces included sweaters embellished with metal rings.

Morten Underbjerg Olesen showed a great, off-beat and slightly wild sense of style and colour. His shapes for women were mostly loose and flowing with a youthful, eccentric vibe. Metallic lace was overlaid on to vibrant silk in a palette of lime green, cerise pink, and citrus orange.

Cecile Bahnsen showed sexy jersey dresses and sheer layers featured graphic spot and ‘arrow’ patterning in black and white. Roomy, shiny bomber jackets and complex, origami-folded structures made for an accomplished collection.

Danielle Romeril’s great collection had a strong, primitive warrior vibe, with slashed and studded details. Key pieces were great, draped, printed dresses with spiky ‘quill-like’ decorative details.

More menswear highlight’s included Robert Huth’s tailored pieces, sporting frayed lapels and seams. Precise, ‘slashed’ decorative detailing looked great on otherwise pristine garments. Fine knits, layering and matte textures were other key elements of his considered collection.

Le Lin Tiffany Tang’s menswear was striking for the use of some amazing fabrics shot through with metal fibres, and finally, Zara Gorman’s bold and beautiful millinery was nothing short show-stopping.

Fashion Footwear and Accessories design can be seen from the 25 June–4 July 2010 (29 June closes at 4pm; closed 2 July) at the exhibition at SHOW Two, Kensington Gore.

This final part of the graduate shows also includes work by MA students from the following courses: Animation, Architecture, Communication Art & Design, Design Products, Design Interactions, History of Design, Innovation Design Engineering, Textiles and Vehicle Design. Some work will be for sale or commission. Open 11am–8pm daily.

Image Credits: Images courtesy of www.catwalking.com

www.rca.ac.uk

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