This summer we headed to Arnhem for the graduating crème de la crème in fashion from the Netherlands. That’s the reputation ArtEZ has built up in the past few years. Not only are its collections always jaw-droppingly inventive, ArtEZ is creative location-wise too. One year we crossed the river Nederijn in a ferryboat to a huge industrial unit. This year buses took us to a deserted, slightly freaky location. The first row gave us a perfect view.
Fred Farrow has already scooped a job at Balmain in Paris, where he interned in 2009. His collection L’heroine makes this perfectly understandable, looking at a white leather coat embroidered with white beads in a square pattern, finished off with Tibetan lamb. Or rock-style painted tights with diamonds or a dress made entirely of headscarves?
Wool, wool, wool is the essence in Jennifer Busking’s Lifted. Threads of wool are cut, simply hung, carefully draped and finally knitted on, in, and around her feminine, often silk pieces. However it’s her subtle play with bronze, blacks and cool greys, which is spectacular.
Lotte van Schijndel found her inspiration in photographer Deborah Turbeville and the time women were liberated from wearing a corset. Her quite graphic collection Untitled is complete in black, white and ecru and puts a subtle emphasis on a woman’s curves.
Britt Tan’s collection Get Hustle had a colourful, folkloric look. Heavy knitwear is patched onto smooth silky sometimes see-through fabrics and black leather.
Tishya Oedit presents a little girl’s fairytale, in which rule pastel shades, loose knitted wool skirts, ruffled bonbon dresses and a beautiful thirties teal overcoat.
Loud rock music introduced the models of Marloes Hankel, one of the many designers working with headscarves to accessorize. Her collection Square is defined by a bright colour palette, suede jackets with carved out prints and colourful burka-style dresses with men’s shoes underneath.
Ready for bedtime is Annie Ching with the multiple use of a square-blocks pyjama print in baby blue, pink and pine green. The collections title Tribe is therefore slightly confusing, but it might be in the white thick knitted and buckled vests.
Nienke Hoekstra focused on pastel shades, sports inspired silhouettes and ruffles. Glossy red pumps with white socks completed her collection entitled She is as bright as yellow.
A white-blue striped fancy shirt with a carved-out flower print and the men’s style shorts with the interlining showing underneath were included in Melissa Siegrist’s masterpieces. Her California collection is defined by a boyish, sober silhouette with white, khaki and light blue accents.
Bianca Herranz van Roeden should be designing for the Swedish label COS, that is how clean cut her clothes look. White, grey and black dominated in her collection Summertime, until the last model came out in a bright, ultra pink layered dress!
More knitwear in Sugar Girls by Annika Vonk. Thigh high, ivory knitted tights are combined with high wasted pants and an occasional jumpsuit.
Kris Berden showed his insect-inspired collection entitled Apoidea. The theme translates to a serious black, charcoal grey and fern green colour scheme, crepe fabric and a lot of delicate pleating.
Sarah Petersen’s pretty collection Reborn exuded a somewhat spiritual sense with long layered dresses, high-pleated collars and vintage knitted lace.
Last but not least, Piotrek Panszczyk, who ended the graduate show with beautifully flowing slim jumpsuits, which slowly seem to transform into dresses and kaftans.
Image credits: photography by Peter Stigter


















