Phoebe English A/W 2011 Collection
Joint winners of the L’Oreal award at the CMS Ma show were Phoebe English and Viktor Smedinge. ARTS THREAD looks at their work and that of our top two favourites from the show.
Viktor Smedinge A/W 2011 Collection
Phoebe English showed an all-black womenswear collection featuring long, long strands of hair-like texture combined with matt/shine, while Viktor Smedinge’s neutral palette of womenswear revolved around cocooning curved shapes and 3D scrolling.
For ARTS THREAD, there were two standout collections. Pietro Franch and Charlotte Smith debuted wondrous collections for both menswear and womenswear, respectively. It was a showcase of new innovation, the new age of design talent.
Pietro Franch A/W 2011 Collection
Pietro Franch used wool and stretch jersey in a ubiquitous manner. Wool is a perfect material for winter months, disregard the body-con silhouettes and step into comfy, cascading shapes. Menswear was as strong as ever this season, as it always is, but Franch’s collection was prominent for its use of graphic shapes and clean lines. Cool boxy shapes draped the form; these came with contrasting marl jersey and black matte inserts for a streamline silhouette.
Scruffy haired models clad in strappy flats stalked down the catwalk dressed in layers of winter fine knits. Island prints brandished jumpers and shirts, and the continuations of crisp tailored coats were perfect for winter months ahead. Dense leather came in rich shades of teal and mahogany, which formed slick biker jackets with front panelling.
Spock blunt haircuts brandished model heads and the cool austerity of the bomber shapes and skinny acid jeans complemented perfectly a collection worthy of any winter wardrobe.
Charlotte Smith A/W 2011 Collection
Charlotte Smith’s womenswear stood out from the flock of avant-garde design with equestrian undertones to her collection. A debut of innovative tassel-layered gowns in a monochrome palette stormed the runway with the clip-clopping of horse hoof feet.
There were amorphous silhouettes that engulfed the body with layers upon layers of horse-fringe. These infused the outgrown shapes, completely distorted to the eye and wonderfully draped. High-collared gowns were pieced by warped fringe pieces that consumed the body.
There was however a flash of colour, in the form of butterscotch yellow that peered out between the monochromatic layering. It was tiny preview to a youthful aesthetic and a wonderful addition to the already competitive womenswear industry.
Image credits: photography courtesy of Catwalking
