The BFC Show space at Somerset House was shaken this morning with a seismic parade of innovation. David Koma’s circular collisions impounded, emitting a certain buzz at London fashion week; day four.
It was hard to miss; the giant spots amorphing the model silhouettes as they stalked down the Koma catwalk. Winter couldn’t be more dense, more gothic and more infiltrated with ghoulish aesthetics. Garments were heavily embellished, engulfed in darkness.
Leather was used in an animalistic way, with serpentine scales cocooning the body in s-shape forms. High-gloss jarred with the supple matte black, it voiced the tribalism of fashion week so far. Every piece was hard-edged and rife with attitude. Sheer slit inserts wrapped around arms and waists creating a beautiful hourglass silhouette for an otherwise punkish sensibility.
Scallop-edged shoe boots with fetish leather came in shades of slate and shocking scarlet. These too laced around the foot with fur exploding from ankle hems. Winter and fur go hand-in-hand, giving a luxe appearance to the sheen of the leather. For Koma it came in pom-pom forms that were intricately laced around lapels and collars. Deeper into the collection these pop poms became dispersed, placed randomly across the form. Koma said the collection was inspired by ‘hallucinations’ and it was evident that these embellishments showcased this.
The dense black soon transitioned into nude, this time the leather was exposed in inverted black giving a shocking contrast to the gothic shapes of before. There was a beautiful cape coat with cut-out circular shapes teamed with thigh leather boots. Magnificent matte dress coats were great for the winter months, these were cut with fine precision giving an elegant take on outerwear.
And just when you thought the comfort of black was seeping into your imaginarium, a shock of colour infiltrated the catwalk in fluro hues of electric blue, tangerine and sunshine yellow. This jarred with the gothic aesthetic, and brought light to a dense winter collection. The collection was also inspired by Tim Burton, and this came into play with eerie Russian doll prints overlayed by inverted white spots.
Everything seemed that little be on edge, strange and twisted. It was a collection worthy of Hitchcock gothic infiltrations, winter has never seemed so distorted.
Photography: Courtesy of catwalking.com