GFW12: Edinburgh College of Art

The collections from Edinburgh School of Art were a celebration of an array of textures, colours and unconventional fabrics. The collections showcased fantastic pattern cutting skills and new ways of using materials and joining them together in innovative ways.

The show was opened with the music setting a fantastic atmosphere for the first collection by Jacob Birge who used a whole host of unconventional materials from PVC to leather to sports fabrics to create his stunning collection. The materials were attached using studs which gave the designs the impression of armour, furthered by the headwear which covered, or protected, the face.

The collection was followed by that of Raj Mistry, who demonstrated a clear talent for pattern cutting and attention to detail. Woven and wool fabrics were used for tailored jackets that were attached to neon hoods in neoprene fabrics that really gave the collection contrast and a range of textures. The last outfit featured a cropped jacket, unusual for menswear, with drawstrings and padded pockets changing the silhouette and playing with volume.

We then moved on from structure to stunning printed skirts in the collection of Jacqueline McLardie. A collaboration with Kerri White who produced the textiles, the prints were sophisticated in almost a hand painted effect in flowing silks that looked beautiful as they came down the runway. This contrasted with tops made from leather panels that held their shape and were reminiscent of the shell of a turtle perhaps.

Androgyny was explored within the collection of Katarzyna Krzywania, whose use of neon PVC really stood out on the runway as she explored mens silhouettes for womenswear. A huge cape of PVC and plastic had been embedded with geometric shapes within the panels which was truly innovative and encouraged the audience to loom further and explore.

The oversized theme continued with the collection by Riona Horrox, who brought really fresh and exciting materials into menswear such as a huge fur cape and collar. Everything about the collection was oversized, from the shirts to the shorts which gave the collection volume.

Lastly, after all of the amazing volume and structure, the collection from Louise Bennetts boasted fluid, feminine shapes in a beautiful choice of fabrics. Her use of layering was stunning and along with a very feminine colour palette with injections of neons in the underskirts, Louise’s collection was delicate but full of impact.

Edinburgh College of Art Fashion BA (Hons) course & portfolios on ARTS THREAD.

Image credit: Simon Armstrong, simonarmstrong.com