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Charlotte Cohen, Kingston University
What a way to end the third day of shows at Graduate Fashion Week. Kingston University showcased a whirlwind extravaganza of sheer cut outs and hair raising fabric and cut innovation. Intricately woven trompe l’eoil intarsias and silhouette distorting shapes graced the models in collections that enhanced unusual aspects of the figure in an outside the box manner.
Charlotte Cohen launched the show with her extreme nod to the girl-does-gym movement with an intense, anatomically inspired sportswear collection. Heavyweight performance enhancing fabrics cocooned the models in a strong colour palette of tonal greys, nudes and whites, highlighted by a dash of fluro yellow. Standout looks were complemented with strong accessories that included an oversize circular reinvention of the granny bag-on-wheels.
Andrew Grahams, Kingston University
‘I am not a gentleman. I am a mental man’ was the concept for menswear graduate Andrew Grahams’ collection. A series of bi-polar short suits and a re-imagination of the crisp white shirt created a base for the colour palette to really shine through from the white canvas. Graham really pulled the fun from the mental with his placement of the Rorschach ink blot test-esque prints morphed around the heavily structured garments, crossing seams with ease.
Lucie Halley, Kingston University
There was a strong distinctive grain to the looks from graduate Lucie Halley. The forward thinking collection focused on the details in the form of washed out printed linings in the predominantly white line up, as well as teal colour pop shoe covers. Heavy parachute silks creates innovative organic silhouettes, and washed out torn ink prints, complemented by translucent plastic enclosed the form in cut out body suits.
Louise Ross, Kingston University
Louise Ross left little to be desired with her heavily pleated and draped calico-esque creations. Half and half seemed to be the trend with the floral print injected collection, the juxtaposition of heavily exaggerated pleats to the subtle print, in the form of half bias cut ball gowns and austere high neck corseted affairs made for a stunningly unique outcome. Inspired by a series of photographs by Andreé Kertész, aptly titled ‘distortion’, it is clear to see the translation through the line up.
Penelope Tucker, Kingston University
The spirit of the crowds raised when the first look from Penelope Tucker stopped at the end of the runway. Helium took centre stage with an array of fully inflated accessories and headpieces which hung suspended above the garments and in the form of accessories. Inflated outerwear and cocooning hoods in stone greys juxtaposed the lemon pop of paint splatter. It was all about man elevated, the heavyweight collection felt almost expedition-esque; man does the mountains.
Alice Maughan, Kingston University
Alice Maughan closed the show with her Maria Von Trapp meets cat lady collection. Heavily curtain inspired creations, the final look even including the rail, simply proved how a particularly strong collection can originate from anything. Sofa jackets, rushed runner hems and boxy silhouettes were displayed in an array of dull-lived-in in pastels. Cat illustrations were worked into pale baroque prints in the line up that left little to be desired.
Image credit: Simon Armstrong, simonarmstrong.com
