This summer we headed to Arnhem for the graduating crème de la crème in fashion from the Netherlands. That’s the reputation ArtEZ has built up in the past few years. Not only are its collections always jaw-droppingly inventive, ArtEZ is creative location-wise too. One year we crossed the river Nederijn in a ferryboat to a huge industrial unit. This year buses took us to a deserted, slightly freaky location. The first row gave us a perfect view.
During the recent Copenhagen Fashion Week held August 11-15, the first day saw the catwalk show from The Danish Design School, showcasing its seven MA fashion students and a selection of work from its eight Bachelor graduates.
ARTS THREAD takes a look at the collections and shawcases both runway images and the prepared styled shots of the designers.
At London’s Truman Brewery, as part of Free Range, Somerset College catwalk show brought together the best of Design Fashion BA (Hons) and Design Fashion Textiles BA (Hons).
Nature in Design is an exhibition that takes visitors on a journey through nature objectified by Icelandic designers and offers insight into the underlying ideas behind the products. Nature in Design is a collaborative project of the Iceland Design Centre and Landsvirkjun and is open daily until 28th August 2010.
For the fashion and textile graduates of KABK, Royal Academy of Fine Art, The Hague, the academy’s catwalk show is not the end of the presentations. Nine days later these brand-new alumni take refuge into various locations throughout The Hague’s city centre to exhibit their collections to a wider audience. It’s a tradition the KABK has maintained for a few years and it gives the graduates an opportunity to show their work in context.
Some dream of running away to the Circus is the name of the Individuals Spring/Summer 2011 collection from Amsterdam Fashion Institute AMFI. Its theme is all about capturing the essence of lightness; the sensation of being launched from a cloud-high trapeze. Finding safety in dangerous altitudes, while leaving all inhibitions behind. For a moment every thing is possible.
Francesca Prudente, Lauren T Franks, Ellen Chatelain, Textile Design BA(Hons) Chelsea College of Art & Design
This year music and art festival Latitude invited Chelsea College of Art & Design’s Textile Design BA(Hons) graduates to take part in a fashion show at this year’s festival taking place in Suffolk at Henham Park between Thursday 15th and Sunday 18th July.
Trocadéro, Aimee St Hill, University of East London
I Love Paris was the theme of the 2010 silk scarf competition, in which textile designers from 19 UK universities and colleges competed for Gold, Silver and Bronze prizes. The themes included a chance to portray the quirkiness of Parisian arrondissements and differing aspects of French culture.
Made to Measure winners, Silver, Jamie-Lee Burlinson; Bronze, Kristie Walker; Gold, Savannah Bailey; Gold, Markus Wernitznig
The winners of the 2010 Worldskills ‘Made to Measure’ Competition, were announced following the final stage of the competition on June 13, at Northumbria University.
Marcus Wernitznig from New College Nottingham won overall, claiming a Gold medal and a work placement in Debenhams’ London-based head office. Just a shade behind Markus, but with a very high score and also awarded a Gold Medal was Savannah Bailey, also of New College Nottingham. Jamie-Lee Burlinson from Newcastle College walked off with a Silver medal, and Kristie Walker from New College Nottingham was awarded a Bronze.
Platform was the name given by the fashion graduates of HKU Utrecht for their end of year show, held in the beautiful surroundings of the old-fashioned Winkel van Sinkel brasserie.
Mariko Ferrier’s collection was entitled The beauty of the ugly truth and came in a very beautiful array of pale apricot though to deep orange and persimmon tones. Chiffon is ruched and smocked into unexpected shapes, while fabrics are slashed close to the body to create ripples of movement. Strips of fur are held together by plaids, while skinny satin ribbons are sewn to produce a mass of colour.
Ingrid Johanna Lindskog, Istituto Marangoni, London
Istituto Marangoni London took over the city’s Art Deco Lawrence Hall to showcase the catwalk style of its 2010 fashion graduates. Impossible to include them all, we pick out our top designers to watch out for.
ARTS THREAD enjoys the spectacle of the Antwerp Masters show, the culmination of 4 year’s study at the prestigious Belgian institution. Sixteen designers showcased their final collection at the dockland venue Hanger 29.
Lingerie, bodywear and swimwear came down the catwalk at Freemasons Hall, Covent Garden, London with final collections from the graduates of the De Montfort University Contour and Fashion Contour courses.
Even by the exemplary standards of the RCA, this was a terrifically strong show, with some exquisite workmanship, inventive structures and fabulous blasts of colour and pattern to be found in both menswear and womenswear.
The ‘Maison Martin Margiela ‘20′ The Exhibition’ at Somerset House, London presents the visionary work of one of fashions most inconic and contemporary designers. Highlighting Margiela’s innovative designs over the span of 20 years, the exhibition explores concepts of out-sized garments, non-traditional fabrics and the exposition of the construction of his clothes. Welcomed in by a white caravan, the unusual boutique interiors is imbued with the design house’s signature aesthetics; a monochromatic palette, the iconic numbered label, recycled materials and deconstruction.
The Truman Brewery was the setting for a combined show from the Fashion BA (Hons) and Knitwear BA (Hons) from the Winchester School of Art. Designer Peter Jenson presented two graduate awards at the event, the Fashion Textiles award which went to Samantha Bushell for her Body Dynamics knitwear collection and the Fashion Innovation award won by Hanyuan Guo for his collection Art in Darkness.
Karishma Shahani, BA (Hons) Fashion: Design Technology, Yelena Loguiiko, BA (Hons) Fashion Design Technology: Womenswear, LCF
With a super-long runway and celebrities in the crowd, this year’s London College of Fashion (LCF) BA collection, sponsered by Barnett Lawson trimmings, was one hell of a ride.
Carly Ellis, Hannah Clayton, Jessica Madden, University of Westminster
The University of Westminster staged a stellar graduate fashion show on Wednesday 2nd June at their new venue, Ambika P3. The cavernous underground space was impressively packed, as 19 strong, distinctive fashion visions were revealed in a fast-paced, exciting show.
River Island Gold Award winner, Rebecca Thomson, Manchester Metropolitan University
Hosted by Caryn Franklin and featuring a performance by Diversity, this year’s Graduate Fashion Week Gala Awards ceremony was a star-studded affair. From Alberta Ferretti and Mark Eley of Eley Kishomoto to Zandra Rhodes and Dylan Jones, fashion’s VIP were out in force to show their support for British graduates, whose work and collections demonstrated what a talented bunch they are.
This year’s River Island Gold Award, which includes a £20,000 prize, went to Rebecca Thomson of Manchester Metropolitan University. From Victoriana-style blouses and bold folded dresses to pussy-bow blouses and cotton ruffles, her collection, won the judges’ favour.
ARTS THREAD wizzes around Graduate Fashion Week 2010, highlighting the 22 catwalk shows and the 50 promotional stands from the top fashion courses from around the UK and worldwide!
Mulberry Accessories Award winner Kitty Keay, Colchester School of Art, Design & Media
The Mulberry Accessories Award went to Kitty Keay from Colchester School of Art, Design & Media and was presented by Emma Hill, Creative Director of Mulberry. Emma Hill chose the collection as it was ‘full of charm and wit – just adore those Teddy Bears! Kitty told us her collection took inspiration from Jean-Charles de Castelbajac and Moschino Cheap & Chic.
Textiles Award winner Natalie Murray, Northumbria University
The winning graduate of the Textiles Award was Natalie Murray from Northumbria University. The award was judged this year by David Saunders of David David and Orla Kiely, with a criteria to look for a graduate whose work explores the creative and inspired use of colour to achieve a distinctive fashion statement in either printed or constructed textiles. The award was presented at the GFW gala by David Saunders and Barbara Hulanicki.
Natalie’s project was based on Russian constructivism and folklore, taking inspiration from Paul Klee and design house Eley Kishimoto.
Per AQUUM Creative Marketing Award winner Jessica Dance, The Arts University College Bournemouth
Jessica Dance from the Arts University College Bournemouth won the Per AQUUM Creative Marketing Award. Jessica’s project was based on her ‘overactive imagination and love for animals.’ Looking at hibernating animals, Jessica’s drawings led directly to the development of her accessories.
Lyle & Scott Strategic Marketing Award winner Amy Quickfall, Northumbria University
The winner of the Lyle & Scott Strategic Marketing Award is Amy Quickfall from Northumbria University’s Fashion Marketing course. Amy’s project is a concept for a dog brand called Dirty Bitch, aimed at young pet owners who want something fashionable for their home and dog.
Jon Adam Fashion Portfolio Award winner Ellie Mountfort, The Arts University College Bournemouth
Ellie Mountfort from The Arts University College Bournemouth scooped the Jon Adam Fashion Portfolio Award. Ellie’s portfolio work is inspired by ‘the late Alexnder McQueen,artists Georgia O’Keeffe and Salvador Dali and illustrator Satoshi Saïkusa.
Hachette Filipacchi Media Design Award winner Alice Barnes, Northumbria University
The winner of the Hachette Filipacchi Media Design Award is Alice Barnes of Northumbria University’s Fashion Communication course. Alice’s work is based on backstage photographs of fashion shows such as Christopher Kane, Jaeger and Richard Nicoll. Alice worked with the Casting Director Russell Marsh who works with design labels such as Prada and Dries Van Noten, which helped her get to see behind the scenes at shows.
Hammerson Fashion Innovation Award winner The Live Issue by Katie Burkes and Susie O’Brien, UCA Epsom
Katie Burkes and Susie O’Brien from UCA Epsom University Fashion Promotion and Imaging won the by Hammerson Fashion Innovation Award, which was presented to the duo at the GFW gala by Lawrence Hutchings from Hammerson and Harold Tillman. The award was judged by Martin Raymond of The Future Laboratory, Gary Aspden from adidas and designer William Tempest, who collectively noted that Katie and Susie’s ‘live magazine’ project was chosen ‘because it was an excellent and innovative overall concept – live at a time when everything else is online.’
Harriet de Roeper, Nicole Bradshaw, Kingston University
ARTS THREAD has a look at ones to watch from Graduate Fashion Week 2010.
Nicole Bradshaw, Kingston University: ‘The collection is a platform for luxury and desirability. Designed for the professional urban woman who wants to look effortless and feel ultra empowering. The clothes are an investment, and can be described as second skin.’
Colchester College of Art & Design, GFW stand 2010
As seen on our previous post, the stand award went to the Arts University College Bournemouth, with runners-up Bradford and Leeds. The standard was so high we have picked out some more favourites that stood out from the crowd.
The last show on the GFW catwalk schedule, Middlesex University’s show was strong on drama and spectacle. Beveiled brides and cyber-skeletons appeared alongside a strong selection of innovative fashion-forward collections.
Rebecca Thomson, Manchester Metropolitan University
Manchester gave us a refreshing show with a young direction, dramatic pieces plus a strong emphasis on casualwear and denim – as well as the overall winning collection at the event.
River Island Gold Award winner Rebecca Thomson showcased an ethereal light and white collection with a highly sophisticated use of sheers and detailing including lace, pleating and frillls.
The University of Northampton’s show had bags of personality with quality and variety at every turn, creating a great, enjoyable show.
Students from fashion, textiles for fashion, and accessories strutted their stuff in front of a crowd that included Susie Lau of Style Bubble, the iconic Barbara Hulaniki (Biba), designer Betty Jackson and trend-spotters The Future Lab and WGSN.
This year’s GFW stand award went to the Arts University College Bournemouth, with runners-up Bradford College and the University of Leeds.
Arts University College of Bournemouth
Upon arriving at the winning stand you are caught between the idea of stepping into a posh London boutique or that of a white wash honeycomb structure. Either way the stand works well as a showcase. The outer walls of the stand are created out of wooden panels, making geometric patterns, with students’ portfolios slotted onto these structures, creating instant shelving.
Bath Spa University made its catwalk debut at GFW and showcased eleven collections with inspiring detailing and ideas.
Ruth Strugnell’s collection is entitled ‘Comfortably Seated and Wearing Curtains’ and has its focus on sustainable fashion. Ruth explored the use of recycled upholstery fabrics, experimenting with over-dying and patchwork. The shape of the original upholstered furniture pieces inspired ideas for proportion and shape.
Strong print and surface decoration came through in the graduate collections from the Arts University College Bournemouth, with a surprise element of childrenswear, where the tiny so-cute models had the audience cheering wildly.
Robyn Egan’s collection, entitled Natural Protection, is inspired by the layers of a cocoon, where the protective layers of sterile dressings nurture soft skin. Black and white pieces feature striking asymmetry and intricate petal-like layers that extend to face-framing headwear.
Nottingham Trent showcased a strong portfolio of knitwear collections, with especially noteworthy stories from Emma Philpot, Tiffany Williams and Claire Hartley.
Emma Philpot’s collection looked to dramatic knit structures in tones of grey, accented with scarlet. Shoulders and hips hand knitted-in circular structures to add volume, while a jumble of knitted shapes created a dramatic necklace.
Liverpool John Moore University (JMU) gave us a wide range of modern, contemporary looks with a young edge.
Alice England’s muses have been Grace Jones, Pac man and the 80s digital world. Pac man sqaures work in tones of grey, white and black, while high-shine plasticised yellow, bubblegum pink and baby blue are used as tape to thread though pieces or become a plaid front to a dress.
Diverse, eclectic and imaginative show with a strong emphasis on prints and accessories. Continuing the De Montfort’s GFW stand’s theme of Lego, the catwalk was striped shiny red and white, a Lego mascot perched on one corner and a slick video played before the show -where styled shots of one of each designer’s garment in motion morphed into each other in a sea of washed colour.
Denise Nadine Paché, AMD Akademie Mode and Design Munich
The International show created a new and refreshing dimension for Graduate Fashion Week with 5 prestigious institutions showcasing the work of some of their best 2010 graduates.
First up was AMD Akademie Mode and Design Munich with Denise Nadine Paché’s elegant silhouettes for womenswear to open the show. These strong pieces in delicate neutral shades are just one of this talented graduates strengths. Her beautiful illustration and photographic styling work can be viewed on the AMD stand. AMD has four centres in Germany in Hamburg, Düsseldorf, Munich and Berlin and offer courses in Fashion Design and Fashion Design Management.
Left & Right: Carla Grima, Centre: Alexa Papavasileiou, UCA Rochester
The UCA Rochester show was high-quality innovation in textiles and cutting, with a strong emphasis on drape and dramatic silhouettes.
Grecian-drape dresses by Carla Grima came in water-splattered rainbow-hues from turquoise and deep blue’s to fiery oranges and reds. Carla’s inspiration came from the concept of distortion and she experimented with merging photographs of distorted body parts with the motion of fabric.
Alexa Papavasileiou’s collection in cream and grey with splashes of print in soft apricot brought us softly moulded silhouettes.
The University of Salford came up trumps with innovative, dramatic and sharp styling, strong on conception and new ideas.
Danielle Ferguson’s My Inner Child was a real showstopper. Based on the storyline of Sarah Louise Platt from ‘Corrie’ and her teenage pregnancy, the collection mixes the playful with ‘grown-up’ with teddy bear references, pigtails, cartoon outlines and giant spotty bows.
Northbrook gave us a show strong on textiles, with print and surface decoration. Allied to the University of Brighton, the college always comes through with a good selection of collections.
Anna Louise Moxon’s collection entitled Illusional Subfocus took its inspiration from special effects seen in films, especially computer-generated imagery, 3D animation and Op-Art. Opening out like cut paper decorations, blooming on bodices or expanding to become puff-ball skirts. Layers of discs turn into a bolero jacket worn over a swirling op-art print bodysuit.
Kingston’s show was eagerly anticipated, and Theatre A was packed to the hilt to see the 2010 graduates. This was a great parade of accomplished, exciting, and professional collections.
Birmingham City University, staged a fun and eclectic show. Gina Webster was first up, with her layered and structured silhouettes showcasing her colourful, oversized pixel prints. Fur trims were used to add to the flamboyant feel.
Salisbury staged a show of interesting contrasts, with this years graduates choosing to champion both hand-craft and commerciality.
We loved Sophie Lowe’s individual collection, which used knitted raffia and ragged, eroded textures in shades of pale straw, grey and silvery-blue.
Bobby Charles Abley, Ravensbourne College of Design
The Ravensbourne show at Graduate Fashion Week is always a hot ticket, and this year was no exception. Colour, fun and a refreshing irreverence was the hallmark for 2010 – perhaps an antidote for tough times?
Bobby Charles Abley’s strong menswear opener set the scene with neat zipped jackets, ‘speech bubble’ cartoon-bright prints, beetle crusher shoes and brightly-coloured bondage strapping.
The UWE Bristol show was preceded by a short film that portrayed the lead-up to the catwalk event in a gritty, realistic format, including its industrial, and sometimes messy side – the splash of paint from screen printing, sewing and cutting machinery took on the exaggerated sound of a steelworks. Toile sessions and crits juxtaposed with the drama of backstage models.
Northumbria University’s show was exciting across the spectrum, with mens and womenswear, knitwear and prints all looking strong. Ranging from dramatic to vibrantly colourful, through to the precise and subtle – it was a show filled with stellar collections.
With alumni such as fashion’s new crush Holly Fulton and Graeme Black, Edinburgh College of Art (ECA) has garnered a strong reputation over the years and this year’s show only enhanced their position as one of the best fashion colleges in the UK. From 3D fabric to cutesy candy stripes, this year’s graduates’ collections were creative, powerful and well put together.
Eliza Borkowska, Edinburgh College of Art
Eliza Borkowska’s geometric angles and carefully crafted fabrics in a palette of on-trend white, cream, light gold and sky blue demonstrated real mastery of the fabric. Her technique of folding and shaping the fabric in a paper-like manner and adding angled detail to the hips of trousers or shoulders of a jacket showed the potential of 3D clothing.
The University of Central Lancashire (UCLAN) show was an upbeat affair, which was strong on printed textiles and ended with a fun, flurry of patriotic fervour. Sara Wadsworth’s floaty layered pieces were a showcase for her great oversized prints of London landmarks. Big Ben, The London Eye and the Union Jack flag featured throughout, but red, white and blue was banished in favour of black and white with teal and off-beat yellow. Shapes were simple, draped and layered with kaftans; floaty dresses and sweet shorts the order of the day.
Enuvierhire Sophia Orere, University of East London
The University of East London (UEL) opened Graduate Fashion Week in triumphant style, proving that the forthcoming Olympics isn’t the only reason why eyes should be firmly fixed on the East of London.
Yi Fang Wan, winner of L’Oreal Professionnel Young Designer of the Year Award
Economic gloom may surround us, but the graduating BA fashion students from Central Saint Martins are looking towards a future that is mostly bright and optimistic, as revealed at last night’s show at York Hall in London’s Bethnal Green. Dazzling colour and pattern was embraced by many of the students, although the two designers walking off with the main prizes eschewed this trend and opted for quiet monochrome.
Carly Ellis, University of Westminster; Rebecca Thomson, Manchester Metropolitan University; Kitty Keay, Colchester School of Art; Phoebe Thirlwall, Nottingham Trent University; Garry Butterfield, University of Northampton
Top photographer Rankin has create this year’s GFW campaign images, using looks chosen by Dazed and Confused fashion editor Katie Shillingford. The shoot images feature students’ work from the University of Wales, Colchester School of Art & Design, Nottingham Trent University, Birmingham City University, Kingston University, De Montfort University, University of Northampton, University of Westminster and Ravensbourne College.
Last month, over 25 UK member universities and colleges of the British Fashion Council’s Colleges Council took part in a 2010 graduate preview day at London’s Royal Institute of British Architects. Up for grabs were three awards; The Drapers Awards for College Portfolio, Fashion Illustration and the WGSN Digital Presentation Award.
Northumbria University GFW show 2010 invite; Alice Early, Kingston University, 2010 graduate
Taking place between Sunday June 6 and Thursday June 10, Graduate Fashion Week (GFW) celebrates the work of over 1000 fashion graduates from its 61 member universities and colleges in the UK and Internationally. ARTS THREAD works in partnership with GFW and this June will be hosting our blog live on the GFW website too!
The New Generation Group Collection Show at Rosemount Australian Fashion Week (RAFW) has been the launchpad for designers such as Sass and Bide, Camilla and Marc, Ksubi and Akira Isogawa. Showcasing the hottest new talent from the Asia Pacific region, the nine designers featured this year presented a mixture of women’s and men’s ready to wear, high end street wear, swimwear and accessories.
Part exhibition, part magical mystery tour, Artangel’s latest venture is a unique and great experience. The result of collaboration between costume curator Judith Clark and psychoanalyst Adam Phillips, would be interesting in itself, but add in the opportunity to take a tour of Blythe House, the V&A’s vast archive in Kensington, and the prospect becomes irresistible.
Princess Grace at the Princely Palace, about 1960; Erwin Blumenfeld, Portrait of Grace Kelly, New York, 1955
The V&A museum has opened its doors to welcome visitors to experience and view a fine collection of Grace Kelly’s dresses and items that she owned throughout her lifetime.
The exhibition itself was separated into the different stages of her life in the public eye. We loved the ballgown designed by Maggy Rouff – a huge light pink puffball-esque dress with sequin detailing. On the bust of the dress is a large mesh bow, inset with springs of lavender.
C, mm, n Hydrogen Car, Netherlands Society for Nature and Environment
Sustainability is an issue of increasing importance within society as businesses, designers and consumers attempt to address our unsustainable consumption of resources. Sustainable Futures at London’s Design Museum explores the latest developments.
Romance Was Born: Garden of Eden collection 2008 (detail); Nightmare on Wall Street, autumn/winter 2010/11
Together Alone at the National Gallery of Victoria (NGV) presents eight Australian and New Zealand designers, along with examples of their work over the last 12 years. Designers include Zambesi, MaterialByProduct, World, Toni Maticevski, Nom*D, Akira, Romance was Born and Doris de Pont.
As part of DesignMarch, Garden of Enhancement fused photography with illustration to show work by Icelandic fashion designers who were also in town for Reykjavik Fashion Festival held March 18-21 2010.
Enchanted Palace poster; Dress Of The World & Echo Morgan
Kensington Palace has opened its doors to a brand new exhibition entitled ‘Enchanted Palace’ revealing the secrets of the princesses that previously lived there. As part of the twelve million pound renovation project, the palace has welcomed us in with open arms to embrace a visually stunning exhibition featuring installations from William Tempest, Vivienne Westwood and Stephen Jones.
Origami necklace, Sunjit Bhatt; Fashion and Textiles Exhibition, Melbourne
The word ‘Flock’ invokes various interpretations for a Fashion and Textiles exhibition: “A profusion of birds, butterflies, beautiful textiles, and gorgeous garments, Flock showcases the talent and craftsmanship of Melbourne’s RMIT students and recent graduates as they explore the exhibition theme across a diverse range of mediums.”
The Social Studio creates fashion from recycled and unwanted fabrics to be sold through its store and online at Etsy. Unlike most studios, its designers are all young refugees, new to Australia, who develop work and life skills by being part of this new social enterprise.
During Stockholm Fashion Week, five upcoming fashion designers were chosen to go through to the final selection of the Swedish Fashion Council’s Rookies of the Year Award 2010. The five are: Rahnsäter, Seika Lee, Billy and I, The White Briefs and Ida Pyk.
During Paris Fashion Week the latest ArtEZ Fashion Masters graduates took over the Galerie Joseph in the city’s 3rd arrondissement for two days to showcase a new form of presentation featuring photography and multimedia.
Monterrey Housing by Elemental; Plato’s Atlantis by Alexander McQueen
Last Friday saw the category winners of the Brit Insurance Design Awards 2010 announced. Covering architecture, fashion, furniture, graphics, interactive, product and transport. The overall winner will be revealed at the Award’s ceremony on March 16 2010.
Collins Street shoppers 1965; Chadstone Shopping Centre 1960
“Shopping is a popular pursuit for many Melburnians, and the metropolis is defined by its markets, arcades, shopping strips and flagship stores…This exhibition at the city’s Keith Murdoch Gallery explores Melbourne’s long fascination with buying and selling, from early settlement to the present day” explains ‘til you drop exhibition curator, Jane Rhodes.
Winner Rasa Abramaviciute & models, Middlesex University, FAD 2010
Student designer Rasa Abramaviciute scooped the top prize at the 2010 F.A.D student competition fashion show, held at Vauxhall Fashion Scout on Monday 22 February. Selected from over 100 entries, 14 finalists from 10 universities presented two outfits on the catwalk in answer to this year’s inspiring brief entitled ‘Traces’.
The Scandinavian duo that create the outstanding Aminika Wilmont have once again shown at London’s Victoria House what amazing fashion they can create.
The Spanish born designer hit London’s Victoria House with On|Off this season showcasing a cool collection of unfitted knitwear, chiffon dresses and transparent jump suits.
Hugely popular, Ashley Isham showed off his collection this year at London’s Bloomsbury Square. Fashionably late, the collection began by filling the runway with his show stopping dresses we all know and love.
Emilio de la Moreno showed his particular vision of femininity at the BFC space at LFW. Exotic, sexy short dresses were paraded in smudgy, atmospheric prints of inky blue and brown, featuring sharp origami-like folded details.
Topman Design’s newest collection focuses on practicality and function. An army of bleach blonde models walked down the catwalk showcasing the high-end Topman collection, available later this year.
Gemma Slack loves her leather and this season’s collection was no exception. With leather-paneled dresses, asymmetric jackets and even the odd leather bra on show, the young designer showed off her dark side.
London based knitwear designer Alice Palmer launched her a/w 2010 collection this week at Vauxhall Fashion Scout. The collection showcased a range of sensual knitwear, that clung to the models’ bodies as they marched down the runway. The collection’s electronic soundtrack, which featured a sexually explicit song from singer Peaches, summed up the future sex that appeared in the collection.
Saffron Knight was established in 2008 and this February’s Fashion Mavericks saw the designer made her catwalk debut. The collection named ‘Princesses of the Knight’ saw Saffron maintain her signature style of eclectic hand drawn prints, which are heavily influenced by her dual Jamaican and British heritage.
Escaping Emily, David Longshaw autumn/winter 2010/11
This February’s edition of Vauxhall Fashion Scout’s One to Watch catwalk show of four upcoming designers featured David Longshaw, Florencia Kozuch, Eudon Choi and ASKH.
Krystof Strozyna; Jonathan Saunders; Peter Pilotto
Day 5 saw Peter Pilotto, Krystof Strozyna and Jonathan Saunders, a fabulous video by Boudicca, plus William Tempest, Alice Palmer and Ada Zanditon at Vauxhall Fashion Scout.
This February saw Doii show in London for the first time, with a catwalk show at Vauxhall Fashion Scout. The collection was an extremely luxurious treat to the eyes. Each design that went down the runway was made by hand and produced in some of Korea’s finest Couture studios.
A dimly lit presentation room at Vauxhall Fashion Scout housed the new Autumn/Winter 2010 presentation from Louise Amstrup. The setting and atmospheric music in the background set the scene nicely for the newest collection which appeared grungy and gothic in its styling on torsos that lined the room. Two projection screens were in the room, one showed images of the Louise Amstrup catwalk show held recently in Copenhagen, the other showed willowy graphics, which complemented the line.
London Fashion week once again saw Cooperative Designs boldly hit our capital with a bang with its Bauhaus-geometric collection entitled Stacken Blochen.
From what began as a 90s graphic explosion in accessories, has now matured into a slick, 60s clothing collection seen at Orla Kiely’s presentation show at London’s Somerset House.
Louise Goldin; Meadham Kirchhoff; Rok Hwang, CSM MA Fashion
Highlights of Day 3 include Louise Goldin and Meadham Kirchhoff, the Central Saint Martins College of Art & Design MA Fashion show, Harriet’s Muse and Doii at Vauxhall Fashion Scout, the Emma cook video at the Topshop venue and Cooperative Designs.
Let’s set sail for fairer shores. The winners of last season’s Fashion Fringe sent down a collection of pure elegance. Their collection featured mushroom coloured silks billowing down the catwalk to give their tailored dresses, jumpsuits and trousers a new silhouette. The expert tailors played with the idea of ‘80s oversized mohair jumpers to create an extreme style of knit. A black roll neck combined with a long trail springs to mind.
David Koma staged a confident and accomplished show at Vauxhall Fashion Scout on the first day of London Fashion Week. This is just the designer’s second solo show, and revealed a growing maturity in his signature decorative, glamorous style.
Highlights of Day 2 sees Fashion East, Unique from Topshop, Louise Grey, Mark Fast, Mary Katrantzou and Holly Fulton at Somerset House, Iris van Herpen and Jacob Kimme at Vauxhall Fashion Scout and Belle Sauvage and Bryce Aime at On|Off.
Weekend at Wyndham, b Store, autumn/winter 2010/11
The autumn/winter bStore collection is entitled Weekend at Wyndham and the LFW presentation took place in a minimalist set of a woodland lodge, revisited through the eyes of artist Joseph Beuys.
London Fashion Week (LFW) started Friday and ARTS THREAD visited Somerset House, On|Off, Vauxhall Fashion Scout and various other venues close by for special presentations. For the second edition to be held at Somerset House, the catwalk pavilion is decorated with billboards splashed with bright geometric print dresses from the London designers’ spring/summer 2010 collections.
Edenias, Rebecca Litchfield; LCF MA Fashion Photography
Last week saw the MA fashion photography from the London College of Fashion on show at the city’s Mall Gallery. The work of the graduates appeared around the room and in the pages of a giant book, that needed two people to turn the pages.
Privacy at ispo, Munich; The Strength of Silence, Michael Court
The European Fashion Award FASH presented its 2010 winners at the Munich sports show ispo on February 07 2010. The title of the 2010 competition was Privacy and from a catchment of 420 design schools in Europe, five winners were selected.
Amsterdam Fashion Institute (AMFI) took over the cinema Het Ketelhuis in Amsterdam during the city’s recent fashion week end January to debut a series of short films created by the students to express their views of fashion.
Liberty’s newly reopened scarf department is the glamorous setting for a promotion of the work of the three winners of the ComOn Texprint competition in which contestants were asked to create the perfect silk scarf to celebrate historic Italian towns and cities.
INDIVIDUALS is the AMFI-Amsterdam Fashion Institute owned fashion brand that is designed, produced and marketed by the students of the fashion institute. On Thursday January 28 INDIVIDUALS presented their autumn/winter 2010 collection 2010, The Porcelain Papillon, at the Westergasfabriek in Amsterdam, as part of AIFW Amsterdam International Fashion Week.
Sunday January 24 saw the catwalk performance Cultuur Couture in the dramatic setting of the Light Hall at the Tropenmuseum Amsterdam. Staged as part of DOWNTOWN AIFW Fashion Week, the show featured six 2009 graduate BA designers from the Antwerp fashion Academy: Izumi Hongo, Setareh Mohtarez, Matthieu Thouvenot, Pierre-Antoine Vettorello, Nathalie Fordeyn and Mariel Manuel.
A 2009 graduate of the Gerrit Rietveld Academie in Amsterdam, Denise Esser’s collection Future Perfect was picked up by the Coudray agency, who arranged for it to be shown at the city’s concept store SPRMRKT/SPR+ as part of DOWNTOWN Amsterdam International Fashion Week.
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