September 23-26 sees Tent: London take over the Truman Brewery for its multi-faceted design show. ARTS THREAD previews the event and picks out some of the talents to visit.
This was a particularly good year to see some exciting textile design at the New Designers annual showcase of graduate talent. ARTS THREAD rounds up some more of our favourites from 2010.
At London’s Truman Brewery, as part of Free Range, Somerset College catwalk show brought together the best of Design Fashion BA (Hons) and Design Fashion Textiles BA (Hons).
Nature in Design is an exhibition that takes visitors on a journey through nature objectified by Icelandic designers and offers insight into the underlying ideas behind the products. Nature in Design is a collaborative project of the Iceland Design Centre and Landsvirkjun and is open daily until 28th August 2010.
For the fashion and textile graduates of KABK, Royal Academy of Fine Art, The Hague, the academy’s catwalk show is not the end of the presentations. Nine days later these brand-new alumni take refuge into various locations throughout The Hague’s city centre to exhibit their collections to a wider audience. It’s a tradition the KABK has maintained for a few years and it gives the graduates an opportunity to show their work in context.
Francesca Prudente, Lauren T Franks, Ellen Chatelain, Textile Design BA(Hons) Chelsea College of Art & Design
This year music and art festival Latitude invited Chelsea College of Art & Design’s Textile Design BA(Hons) graduates to take part in a fashion show at this year’s festival taking place in Suffolk at Henham Park between Thursday 15th and Sunday 18th July.
Texprint Colour Winner Andrew Boyd, Cleveland College of Art and Design
The Texprint 2010 Awards were announced during First View, held July 15 and 16 at Chelsea College of Art & Design. A chance to see the work of both the prize winners and the 18 textile graduates finalists selected this year as the 24 to represent Texprint at Indigo Paris this September.
The Colour Award was won by Andrew Boyd of Cleveland College of Art & Design who was inspired by colourful jockey’s silks, spots, checks and stripes and ‘has a passion for screen printing simple shapes and making intricate patterns from them.’ The prize was sponsored by Patnone Europe and judged by Wakako Kishimoto of Eley Kishimoto who said: “Andrew’s work shows he has an eye for something new and knows the value of something alien.” See Andrew’s ARTS THREAD portfolio.
Trocadéro, Aimee St Hill, University of East London
I Love Paris was the theme of the 2010 silk scarf competition, in which textile designers from 19 UK universities and colleges competed for Gold, Silver and Bronze prizes. The themes included a chance to portray the quirkiness of Parisian arrondissements and differing aspects of French culture.
Hannah Davies, Winner of New Designers One Year On Award
ARTS THREAD looks at the work of designers exhibiting at One Year On, a showcase for upcoming talent from previous New Designer graduates. This week’s selection includes textiles, product design, illustration, ceramics and much more.
Once again New Designers showcased a high level of work from textile graduates from around the UK, from Falmouth right up to the Shetland Isles and west to Galway in Ireland. A sharpened focus on the end product came across, as did a spirit of inventiveness in the use of materials.
BDC Award Winner Lucy Foakes, University College Falmouth
Last night saw the winners announced for New Designers Part 1. Held at Islington Business Centre, the show celebrates 25 years this edition. The Business Design Centre (BDC) Award went to Lucy Foakes from University College Falmouth for her Contemporary Canopics. Inspired by ancient Egyptian jars, Lucy has updated them in slip cast and coiled ceramic with laser-cut acrylic. Hand-painted modern icons decorate the vessels, and appear as colourful figurative protectors to guard its contents.
Even by the exemplary standards of the RCA, this was a terrifically strong show, with some exquisite workmanship, inventive structures and fabulous blasts of colour and pattern to be found in both menswear and womenswear.
Unravel Exhibition, Lu Lu Zhao, Chelsea College of Art & Design
The MA Textile Design students from Chelsea College of Art & Design showcased their work-in-progress this summer, prior to their graduation show this September.
The Truman Brewery was the setting for a combined show from the Fashion BA (Hons) and Knitwear BA (Hons) from the Winchester School of Art. Designer Peter Jenson presented two graduate awards at the event, the Fashion Textiles award which went to Samantha Bushell for her Body Dynamics knitwear collection and the Fashion Innovation award won by Hanyuan Guo for his collection Art in Darkness.
Karishma Shahani, BA (Hons) Fashion: Design Technology, Yelena Loguiiko, BA (Hons) Fashion Design Technology: Womenswear, LCF
With a super-long runway and celebrities in the crowd, this year’s London College of Fashion (LCF) BA collection, sponsered by Barnett Lawson trimmings, was one hell of a ride.
Carly Ellis, Hannah Clayton, Jessica Madden, University of Westminster
The University of Westminster staged a stellar graduate fashion show on Wednesday 2nd June at their new venue, Ambika P3. The cavernous underground space was impressively packed, as 19 strong, distinctive fashion visions were revealed in a fast-paced, exciting show.
River Island Gold Award winner, Rebecca Thomson, Manchester Metropolitan University
Hosted by Caryn Franklin and featuring a performance by Diversity, this year’s Graduate Fashion Week Gala Awards ceremony was a star-studded affair. From Alberta Ferretti and Mark Eley of Eley Kishomoto to Zandra Rhodes and Dylan Jones, fashion’s VIP were out in force to show their support for British graduates, whose work and collections demonstrated what a talented bunch they are.
This year’s River Island Gold Award, which includes a £20,000 prize, went to Rebecca Thomson of Manchester Metropolitan University. From Victoriana-style blouses and bold folded dresses to pussy-bow blouses and cotton ruffles, her collection, won the judges’ favour.
Mulberry Accessories Award winner Kitty Keay, Colchester School of Art, Design & Media
The Mulberry Accessories Award went to Kitty Keay from Colchester School of Art, Design & Media and was presented by Emma Hill, Creative Director of Mulberry. Emma Hill chose the collection as it was ‘full of charm and wit – just adore those Teddy Bears! Kitty told us her collection took inspiration from Jean-Charles de Castelbajac and Moschino Cheap & Chic.
Textiles Award winner Natalie Murray, Northumbria University
The winning graduate of the Textiles Award was Natalie Murray from Northumbria University. The award was judged this year by David Saunders of David David and Orla Kiely, with a criteria to look for a graduate whose work explores the creative and inspired use of colour to achieve a distinctive fashion statement in either printed or constructed textiles. The award was presented at the GFW gala by David Saunders and Barbara Hulanicki.
Natalie’s project was based on Russian constructivism and folklore, taking inspiration from Paul Klee and design house Eley Kishimoto.
Harriet de Roeper, Nicole Bradshaw, Kingston University
ARTS THREAD has a look at ones to watch from Graduate Fashion Week 2010.
Nicole Bradshaw, Kingston University: ‘The collection is a platform for luxury and desirability. Designed for the professional urban woman who wants to look effortless and feel ultra empowering. The clothes are an investment, and can be described as second skin.’
The last show on the GFW catwalk schedule, Middlesex University’s show was strong on drama and spectacle. Beveiled brides and cyber-skeletons appeared alongside a strong selection of innovative fashion-forward collections.
Rebecca Thomson, Manchester Metropolitan University
Manchester gave us a refreshing show with a young direction, dramatic pieces plus a strong emphasis on casualwear and denim – as well as the overall winning collection at the event.
River Island Gold Award winner Rebecca Thomson showcased an ethereal light and white collection with a highly sophisticated use of sheers and detailing including lace, pleating and frillls.
Strong print and surface decoration came through in the graduate collections from the Arts University College Bournemouth, with a surprise element of childrenswear, where the tiny so-cute models had the audience cheering wildly.
Robyn Egan’s collection, entitled Natural Protection, is inspired by the layers of a cocoon, where the protective layers of sterile dressings nurture soft skin. Black and white pieces feature striking asymmetry and intricate petal-like layers that extend to face-framing headwear.
Nottingham Trent showcased a strong portfolio of knitwear collections, with especially noteworthy stories from Emma Philpot, Tiffany Williams and Claire Hartley.
Emma Philpot’s collection looked to dramatic knit structures in tones of grey, accented with scarlet. Shoulders and hips hand knitted-in circular structures to add volume, while a jumble of knitted shapes created a dramatic necklace.
Liverpool John Moore University (JMU) gave us a wide range of modern, contemporary looks with a young edge.
Alice England’s muses have been Grace Jones, Pac man and the 80s digital world. Pac man sqaures work in tones of grey, white and black, while high-shine plasticised yellow, bubblegum pink and baby blue are used as tape to thread though pieces or become a plaid front to a dress.
Diverse, eclectic and imaginative show with a strong emphasis on prints and accessories. Continuing the De Montfort’s GFW stand’s theme of Lego, the catwalk was striped shiny red and white, a Lego mascot perched on one corner and a slick video played before the show -where styled shots of one of each designer’s garment in motion morphed into each other in a sea of washed colour.
Northbrook gave us a show strong on textiles, with print and surface decoration. Allied to the University of Brighton, the college always comes through with a good selection of collections.
Anna Louise Moxon’s collection entitled Illusional Subfocus took its inspiration from special effects seen in films, especially computer-generated imagery, 3D animation and Op-Art. Opening out like cut paper decorations, blooming on bodices or expanding to become puff-ball skirts. Layers of discs turn into a bolero jacket worn over a swirling op-art print bodysuit.
Birmingham City University, staged a fun and eclectic show. Gina Webster was first up, with her layered and structured silhouettes showcasing her colourful, oversized pixel prints. Fur trims were used to add to the flamboyant feel.
Salisbury staged a show of interesting contrasts, with this years graduates choosing to champion both hand-craft and commerciality.
We loved Sophie Lowe’s individual collection, which used knitted raffia and ragged, eroded textures in shades of pale straw, grey and silvery-blue.
Bobby Charles Abley, Ravensbourne College of Design
The Ravensbourne show at Graduate Fashion Week is always a hot ticket, and this year was no exception. Colour, fun and a refreshing irreverence was the hallmark for 2010 – perhaps an antidote for tough times?
Bobby Charles Abley’s strong menswear opener set the scene with neat zipped jackets, ‘speech bubble’ cartoon-bright prints, beetle crusher shoes and brightly-coloured bondage strapping.
The UWE Bristol show was preceded by a short film that portrayed the lead-up to the catwalk event in a gritty, realistic format, including its industrial, and sometimes messy side – the splash of paint from screen printing, sewing and cutting machinery took on the exaggerated sound of a steelworks. Toile sessions and crits juxtaposed with the drama of backstage models.
Northumbria University’s show was exciting across the spectrum, with mens and womenswear, knitwear and prints all looking strong. Ranging from dramatic to vibrantly colourful, through to the precise and subtle – it was a show filled with stellar collections.
The University of Central Lancashire (UCLAN) show was an upbeat affair, which was strong on printed textiles and ended with a fun, flurry of patriotic fervour. Sara Wadsworth’s floaty layered pieces were a showcase for her great oversized prints of London landmarks. Big Ben, The London Eye and the Union Jack flag featured throughout, but red, white and blue was banished in favour of black and white with teal and off-beat yellow. Shapes were simple, draped and layered with kaftans; floaty dresses and sweet shorts the order of the day.
Enuvierhire Sophia Orere, University of East London
The University of East London (UEL) opened Graduate Fashion Week in triumphant style, proving that the forthcoming Olympics isn’t the only reason why eyes should be firmly fixed on the East of London.
Yi Fang Wan, winner of L’Oreal Professionnel Young Designer of the Year Award
Economic gloom may surround us, but the graduating BA fashion students from Central Saint Martins are looking towards a future that is mostly bright and optimistic, as revealed at last night’s show at York Hall in London’s Bethnal Green. Dazzling colour and pattern was embraced by many of the students, although the two designers walking off with the main prizes eschewed this trend and opted for quiet monochrome.
Part exhibition, part magical mystery tour, Artangel’s latest venture is a unique and great experience. The result of collaboration between costume curator Judith Clark and psychoanalyst Adam Phillips, would be interesting in itself, but add in the opportunity to take a tour of Blythe House, the V&A’s vast archive in Kensington, and the prospect becomes irresistible.
The students of the Royal Academy of Art, The Hague (KABK) presented their experimental works during Salone del Mobile in Milan. The focus of the show was the importance of the research process and the interaction between experiences in the virtual and the physical world.
The ARTS THREAD team visited the Fashion & Textiles Museum’s (FTM) latest inspirational offering – Very Sanderson: 150 Years of English Decoration.
This small but beautifully formed exhibition in London is a must see for anyone with a passion for textiles or interiors. It’s also a landmark event for the iconic Sanderson brand, who over the past 150 years have been at the forefront of British decoration and, more importantly, have lived to tell the tale.
C, mm, n Hydrogen Car, Netherlands Society for Nature and Environment
Sustainability is an issue of increasing importance within society as businesses, designers and consumers attempt to address our unsustainable consumption of resources. Sustainable Futures at London’s Design Museum explores the latest developments.
During Milan Design Week (April 14-19 2010), seven designers and creative labs from Berlin gathered for the exhibition Made in Berlin – Open Process. Coordinated by the contemporary design platform DMY Berlin in collaboration with Create Berlin, the exhibition revealed new prototypes and innovative concepts for future living spaces.
The Fondazione Claudio Buziol, founded by Italian label Replay, plays host this week in Milan to Venice 2132, an exhibition by four ex-RCA students chosen by Martin Gamper.
The four, Fabien Cappello, Merel Karhof, Lucia Massari and Bethan Laura Wood have been artists in residence of the foundation for three months, living in Venice with a studio space located on the city’s Canal Grande. The aim of the three months was for the designers to create works which demonstrate their personal ideas as developed against the inspirational backdrop of Venice and its traditions. ARTS THREAD looks at the projects created by Merel Karhof.
The Total Table Design project which premiered at Dutch Design Fair Object Rotterdam earlier this year came to Salone del Mobile Furniture Fair in Milan this week. In the exhibition Dutch designers Kiki van Eijk and Studio Scholten & Baijings (Stefan Scholten and Carole Baijings) present their visions for the art of dining.
The Savage Mind is a show featuring seven students from Konstfack University College of Arts, Crafts and Design of Stockholm at Spazio Rossana Orlandi during Milan Design Week April 14-19 2010.
Ivar Björkman, president of Konstfack explains the idea behind the works of young talents in the show: “The age that we are living in stretches back to the origin of human beings, irrespective of whether we are modern or not. In his book The Savage Mind, French anthropologist Claude Lévi-Strauss explains that there are no fundamental differences in how we think between primitive peoples in the Stone Ages and ourselves nowadays”.
Enchanted Palace poster; Dress Of The World & Echo Morgan
Kensington Palace has opened its doors to a brand new exhibition entitled ‘Enchanted Palace’ revealing the secrets of the princesses that previously lived there. As part of the twelve million pound renovation project, the palace has welcomed us in with open arms to embrace a visually stunning exhibition featuring installations from William Tempest, Vivienne Westwood and Stephen Jones.
John Ward, caa exhibition poster; left - Our Future Hours, Zoe Arnold, foregd - Rebecca Catterall, backgd - St. Ambrose's Reliquary, Michael Ruh
The Honey Bee and the Hive brings together the work of 28 designers who have all responded to the brief set by guest curator Wendy Ramshaw CBE RDI on the subject of the Honey Bee and the Hive. Wendy notes that ‘Bees, it is said, are the most studied creatures on the planet after man.’
Origami necklace, Sunjit Bhatt; Fashion and Textiles Exhibition, Melbourne
The word ‘Flock’ invokes various interpretations for a Fashion and Textiles exhibition: “A profusion of birds, butterflies, beautiful textiles, and gorgeous garments, Flock showcases the talent and craftsmanship of Melbourne’s RMIT students and recent graduates as they explore the exhibition theme across a diverse range of mediums.”
This March sees a selection of upcoming designers playing with the theme of living in London showcased at Craft Central’s new exhibition that covers jellewery, silversmithing, textiles, illustration, ceramics, interiors and even passementerie.
Konstfack University College of Arts, Crafts and Design; Greenhouse 2010
Greenhouse is Stockholm Furniture Fair’s area for independent designers and design schools. Design schools participating this year included Stockholm’s Konstfack University College of Arts, Crafts and Design and Beckmans College of Design through to northern European colleges outside of Sweden, such as Art Future Design School from Saint Petersburg and Tartu Art College (TAC) in Estonia.
The 2010 [d3] Contest saw 30 products from 33 young designers from 12 countries on show in a special exhibition at the imm fair in Cologne, Germany this January. The jury of interior experts chose three winners and three highly recommended. The three winners take away prize money of 2000€ each.
This year’s New Design Britain Awards were recently announced at interiors 2010, Birmingham. 16 product design finalists were selected from the 150 original entries. Applicants were from a range of disciplines from over 80 universities. Award Winners were invited to exhibit by the organisers of New Design Britain and their work was on display in the Thinking Space in Hall 2 of the NEC.
Liberty’s newly reopened scarf department is the glamorous setting for a promotion of the work of the three winners of the ComOn Texprint competition in which contestants were asked to create the perfect silk scarf to celebrate historic Italian towns and cities.
Best Interpretation of the Trend Concept, Whisper Spring/Summer 2011 trend
The recent Industry collaboration with colour consultancy Global Color Research and Birmingham City University (BCU) proved a resounding success at interiors 2010 in Birmingham, with a wealth of creative new talent from 120 students from MA Interior Design and BA Printed, Constructed and Embroidered Textile Design and Interior Design study programmes.
For the third year running Designersblock has created a feature area for interiors 2010 in Birmingham running January 24-27. Designers, companies and manufacturers have collaborated on new projects that will be shown for the first time at the show, with new projects from Ercol, Timorous Beasties, Sitting Firm, Chris Eckersley, Puff and Flock, Lazerian, Pure Whyte, Hendzel & Hunt, Assembly Room, Thomas Forsyth, Owen Gildersleeve, Camira, Bute Fabrics, Lunchtime Cinema and more.
The Royal College of Art (RCA) Textiles and Fashion Work in Progress exhibition ended last Friday. If you missed it, then check out our previous posts highlighting some of the best work on show. In the last report, ARTS THREAD highlights some of the excellent work in constructed textiles.
The Royal College of Art (RCA) Work in Progress exhibition continues until this Friday January 22 – so if you have a chance – catch it while you can! Today, ARTS THREAD reports on the excellent work on show in printed textiles.
One of the most impressive exhibits is by Rupert Newman. Using light sensitive inks and graphic geometric patterning, he then projects moving light and images onto a printed panel, creating mesmerising changes of and colour and mood.
Accessories by Alexandra Gold at Work In Progress Exhibition; Nabil El Nayal
The Royal College of Art (RCA) Work in Progress exhibition is a free annual exhibition which shines a tantalising light on forthcoming emerging talent from the college. ARTS THREAD was there this weekend to check out the Fashion and Textiles and the exhibition runs until Friday 22nd January – so catch it while you can!
If you say the name Mark Fast, you would automatically hark back to the size 14 debate that happened at his catwalk show at this September’s London Fashion Week. However, there is a lot more to this talented knitwear designer.
Canary Wharf to Greenwich, Imogen Houldsworth; Geometrics, Mandeep Mann
Inspired by the theme of Neighbourhood Colour, 2nd year students in print, weave, knit, stitch and digital textile specialisms have worked with colour palettes and concepts to produce ideas for fabrics and product innovations through the development of colour, surface and/or texture and form. Students were asked to choose two contrasting London neighbourhoods and capture the essence of each.
Inspired by the theme of Neighbourhood Colour, 2nd year students in print, weave, knit, stitch and digital textile specialisms have worked with colour palettes and concepts to produce ideas for fabrics and product innovations through the development of colour, surface and/or texture and form. Students were asked to choose two contrasting London neighbourhoods and capture the essence of each.
Pigsy in Space, Sam Pilling & Chris Lee; 20 Hoxton Square Projects
Future Map 09 is currently showcasing a selection of creative work from the colleges that make up the University of the Arts London. Located in Hoxton Square, the works chosen represent the best from over 200 undergraduate and postgraduate fine art and design courses available across the university.
Pop-up shop, Camden; Dress by Martyna Julia Dariewicz, Jacket by Christine Watson
From December 7-13 2009, browse and buy one-off designs by final year fashion students of Heriot-Watt University, Scotland at a special pop-up shop created in conjunction with Camden Town Unlimited.
Two minutes from London’s Kings Cross station sees London’s coolest Christmas pop-up shop, Kristie & Coralie’s Drink, Shop & Do. Only open til the 20th December over three Thursday-Sunday long weekends, pick up gifts from upcoming designers, take part in craft workshops and most important – enjoy the splendid tea, homemade cakes and wonderfully retro cocktails.
Warp Factor '09, Textile Futures at Central Saint Martins
Premiered in Tokyo in October 2009 and now in London, Warp Factor ‘09 celebrates the innovation and future thinking of textiles researchers and recent MA and BA (Hons) graduate textile, including knit, designers from Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design, London.
Amy Long at RugMark Rehabilitation Centre, Nepal; The Beat of the East moodboard
RugMark brought the winners of its annual Rug Design competition to 100% Design again this year. The winner, Amy Long, a Textile Design student from Loughborough University, created an abstract geometric pattern in graduated purple and blue tones. The competition sets out to inspire the creative talents of young designers and to raise awareness among design students of the child labour issues within the rug industry.
The 2010 competition brief is set to be announced next month and we will be posting it onto the ARTS THREAD competition section as soon as it arrives.
Current research work by individual members of the fashion and textile department can be seen from November 10-16 as the Transient Praxis exhibition at the AVA gallery at the University of East London (UEL).
Although entitled Transient Praxis, the development and evolution of the work is far from transient – and forms part of the ongoing personal development of each member of staff. A symposium on the event took place on 12 November, with guest speaker Tom Klinkowstein: creative director of Media A, New York.
Return, Gerdiene van de Pol; Chitchat, Teun Flesken; A Drop of Water, Bas van der Veer
All photos by Jainy Gans
As part of Dutch Design Week, the Design Academy Eindhoven opens its doors to showcase the work of its graduates of design in both the BA and MA courses. ARTS THREAD takes a trip around the BA galleries to see what’s new.
ARTS THREAD went along to the opening of a pop-up gallery and shop of six young designers working in textile and illustration. Located centrally in London’s Tavistock Place, the 3 week shop is a new initiative of Camden Council to make use of vacant shops in the borough. See end of article for full details on how to apply.
Janet Westwood, BA (Hons) Photography; Making – The Future 09
Making – The Future 09 at Nottingham Trent University brings together work from recent BA and MA graduates from the School of Art and Design, plus the
School of Architecture, Design and the Built Environment. Look out for fashion, knitwear and textiles, ceramics, jewellery, glass, photography, graphics, multimedia, product and furniture design.
Just a year out of university, Zoe Murphy is already enjoying great success. She is working really hard to keep pace with demand for her lovely, colourful furniture and textiles.
Last week at Tent London ARTS THREAD was completely smitten with the joyful blast of colour courtesy of Corita Rose. This small company, based in Dorset, was set up in 2008 by Caroline Ritchie and showcases her textile design talent as a recent MA textiles graduate from Bath Spa University.
New design collective Bricolage caught our eye at Tent London. Five talented textile designers, all recent-years graduates from Chelsea College of Art & Design, showcased their work together – creating a strong complementary mood. Their modern styling has a warm retro ‘50’s vibe which should be a sure-fire hit.
Doing it for the Kids; Up-Cycled Frisbees, Future Industries
Now in their fourth year of exhibiting at 100% Design, with sustainable innovative design at the forefront once again, the [Re]design team did not fail to disappoint. They had invited a team of likeminded makers and designers along to contribute to their interactive stand, tackling the issue of sustainable play design for kids.
ARTS THREAD was in Clapham on Saturday to check out the ‘Come across Stitch’ intervention – popping in to the Papered Parlour, for a welcome cup of tea and a rather fabulous cake.
Artist Hannah Hull was out and about creating a stir in the outdoor environment – we spotted her giant bunting adorning a building on The Pavement in near Clapham Common. With the sun shining, the cheery vibe continued inside the Papered Parlour where selected artists, illustrators and craftspeople were showing and selling their work.
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