ARTS THREAD Blog » Accessories

Who’s Next/Prêt-à-Porter preview: Q&A with Laura Amstein

Calum Ross — Wed, 18 Jan 2012 22:31:12 +0000

Laura Amstein

Award winning designer Laura Amstein (Royal College of Art Fashion MA graduate) creates stunning, functional leather accessories which we know will turn a few heads at Who’s Next/Prêt-à-Porter! ARTS THREAD had a chat with Laura to learn all about her ‘Eight Shapes’ collection, favourite accessory and current projects.

ARTS THREAD: Tell us about the collection you will be showing at Who’s Next
Laura Amstein: ‘Eight Shapes’ is a playful, functional collection of leather goods based on the traditional technique of molding leather. I am fascinated by the unique qualities of leather – it can be pulled and stretched from a 2D material into a 3D shape. The clean and simple aesthetic that this molding technique produces lends itself beautifully to the use of bright and exciting colours. Making all the products myself, it was crucial to ensure luxury through high-quality craftsmanship and sensitivity to the leather.

Laura Amstein

It was really important that the collection contained an element of surprise, playfulness and movement. Some pieces stack neatly on top of or inside each other, some expand the more you store in them, and others contract as you pick them up. It is this interaction between the products themselves and the products and the user that really delights me.

AT: What design processes did you go through to create the final pieces?
LA: Initially I researched traditional leather goods, particularly molded camera cases. With this inspiration I went on to develop my ideas through sketching, putting a lot of thought into the functional aspect of my collection. I also sketched my ideas out in 3D, with card mock-ups to develop shape and proportion. Material development was crucial to the design process. This involved making molded samples with different leathers, making prototypes and colour development.

AT: Which accessories do you never leave the house without?
LA: One of the first leather bags I made – a small, black, hand-sewn box bag. It goes with everything and is the perfect size for essentials.

AT: Tell us about the projects you are currently working on
LA: I’m currently working at Burberry on their ‘Prorsum’ catwalk line of accessories. I am also really excited to be working on my own designs for future collections.

AT: What do you hope to gain from exhibiting at Who’s Next?
LA: I hope to meet exciting people in the industry and to raise my profile as an accessories designer – I very much look forward to it!

Meet Laura Amstein and the other chosen designers within the FAME area of the show, held January 21-24 2012 at Porte de Versailles.

Laura Amstein’s ARTS THREAD portfolio.

Designersblock For Interiors UK 2012, Preview

Calum Ross — Wed, 21 Dec 2011 10:43:31 +0000

Rosemary Anrude/ Daniel Schofield/ Stuart Melrose

Following our successful collaboration at the Farmiloe Building during the London Design Festival, ARTS THREAD are once again teaming up with Designersblock to bring you the best emerging graduate and student design work. This time we’re heading up north to Birmingham where we will be taking part in the UK’s interiors trade exhibition Interiors UK – and we’d like you to join us! Visit our Designersblock competition page for further details on how you could be exhibiting your work in front of Britain’s top retailers and buyers.

In the meantime, we preview a selction of talents on show with Designersblock in January in Birmingham.

For this year’s Interiors UK, Designersblock are curating a village complete with local bar (co-hosted by our own Alex Brownless), market stalls and shops where visitors can become fully immersed in the latest furniture, lighting, accessory and lighting designs from the country’s top creatives.

Whilst wandering around the village, visitors will uncover the work of furniture designers such as Sheffield Hallam University graduate Daniel Schofield who will be presenting his ‘Out Kid’ and ‘Slide and Hide’ designs, Kingston University graduate Rosemary Anrude and Exeter School of Arts Stuart Melrose who will be showcasing his new furniture created in collaboration with Corian and Puff & Flock.

POSTextiles/ Patrick Stevenson-Keating

Amongst the textile designers on show, visitors should keep an eye out for the work of the twelve St Martins graduates who have formed the experimental textile collective POSTextiles. Patrick Stevenson-Keating, winner of the Designersblock award for outstanding creative thought at New Designers 2011, will also be in attendance presenting ‘The Quantum Parallelograph’ and his ‘Home Particle Accelorator’ alongside some new work.

House of Hackney/ Donna Wilson

In addition, Designersblock have also commissioned three leading contemporary designers to create their own interpretation of the classic British Bed & Breakfast. We can’t wait to see the incredible interior spaces which House Of Hackney, Donna Wilson and Studio Myerscough will come up with!

Interiors UK runs from 22 – 25 January 2012 at the NEC, Birmingham.
For opening times and further details visit the Interiors UK website.
To apply for our Designersblock competition, visit our ARTS THREAD Opportunities page.

LDF11: Fendi and The Royal College of Art

Natalie Fordham — Mon, 03 Oct 2011 11:30:14 +0000

Kinetic Frenetic, Lola Lely

A new Fendi store opening on Sloane Street celebrated London Design Festival by inviting RCA Design Products students to create a series of window and in-store displays, which pay tribute to British design.

The displays aimed to signify the innovative uses of Fendi craftsmanship, incorporating cast-off materials along the way. British designer Simon Hasan, who has previously worked with Fendi and is an RCA graduate himself, guided the project.

Kinetic Frenetic – Craft and the Futurist Machine is a fun, playful installation by Lola Lely. Inspired by the Italian art movement ‘Futurism,’ Lola wanted to produce a piece that ‘celebrates the art of craft, the motion of industry, progress and the future, whilst respectfully acknowledging the past.’ The window display is enjoyable to stop and watch, taking in the detail, as the Kinetic machine runs on cogs and pulleys, scrap metal and leather cut-offs.

Starting with a Blank Canvas, Meret Probst

Starting with a Blank Canvas is a vibrant, eye catching window display by designer Meret Probst. Inspired by the coloured leather of Fendi, the canvas starts out blank, then drips of coloured dye have been slowly released from hanging domes. These run down the canvas and onto a selection of bags, transforming its original beauty into a ‘decorative and ever-changing picture.’

The Anatomy of Fendi, Samuel Weller and Imme van der Haak

In store, a beautifully authentic display of Victorian glass bell jars by Samuel Weller and Imme van der Haak resides on the lower floor. The duo have taken the partially concealed and silhouetted element of Fendi’s designs and created The Anatomy of Fendi, an exciting voyeuristic peek at the construction and unseen detail that goes into the handbags. The designers have deconstructed the Fendi bag and displayed them as sculptural pieces; fitting so naturally amongst the shops displays and yet telling a story of their own, these bell jars are a favoured piece.

RCA Design Products
Fendi

Preview: Vienna Design Week 11

Katie Dominy — Wed, 28 Sep 2011 11:45:47 +0000

Freshly Baked, Vera Wiedermann; ecoLUCY, Vienna University of Technology

Vienna Design Week starts this Friday September 30 through to October 09 2011. ARTS THREAD takes a look at some of the highlights on show.

Head over to the Frühbauer bakery for conceptual designer Vera Wiedermann’s installation entitled Freshly Baked, created especially for the design week. Focusing on bread, in both a practical and a poetic way, the simplicity of bread contrasts with the reality of mass-production. Power-transmiting nutrients, such as corn, starch, sugar, and even proteins may be consumed in a laboratory of food. At the same time entertaining machines and unfamiliar noises can be heard… Look out above – as a flour-storm descends…

During the summer twelve students studying Spatial and Sustainable Design at the Vienna University of Technology were given a project around the theme of sustainability to design lighting objects from only one material – they chose paper. Entitled EcoLUCY, the exhibits will sit alongside cardboard furniture designed by Günter Pichler from the Werkstatt Raum.

Tomás Alonso & Wiener Silber Manufactur; Philippe Malouin & J. & L. Lobmeyr

Passionswege is an Austrian initiative linking designers with specialist local crafts people. At Vienna Design Week you can see the results of these collaborations. Spanish-born designer Tomás Alonso will be showing a silver tea-set created for Wiener Silber Manufactur, a traditional highly-skilled Viennese silver producer. Tomás has focused on the ‘functionality of the pattern’, creating a plain tea service with fluted pattern on the bottom of the pieces and the upper side of the tray, allowing the pieces to interlock.

The Viennese company J. & L. Lobmeyr has been making glass for over 200 years. The Canadian designer Philippe Malouin takes a new look at the Lobmeyr production method, characterised by pieces that take a long time to make and are made in limited editions. Quartz powder slowly sifts out of a revolving and simultaneously rotating sack, visualising the time taken. Spirograph-type patterns form, becoming ever more complex, to eventually pile up as dunes.

Tomas Kral & Mühlbauer Hutmanufaktur; Patrycja Domanska & Tostmann Trachten

Also part of Passionswege is traditional Austrian hat makers Mühlbauer, who have teamed up with Slovakian-born designer Tomas Kral. Tomas has focused on the similarities between the hat and the lampshade and with details aplenty and making full use of all of Mühlbauer’s processing methods, the deisgner has developed his series Light Objects with Hat.

Equally on the same initiative is Tostmann Trachten, well-known for its high-quality traditional Austrian dress. Inspired by the “slow dress” of its bespoke tailoring workshop, the Vienna-based designer Patrycja Domanska has built her own printing tool to create an entirely new generation of traditional fabrics.

Uli Budde & A.E.Köchert

Founded in 1814 the jewellers A.E.Köchert opened its workshop to the German designer Uli Budde. Through talking with trained gem specialist Wolfgang Köchert, Uli chose the cut diamond as his theme, focusing on its facets, whose geometric elements are dissected and re-assembled into a new form featuring polyhedral bodies, wondrous crystalline configurations and modelled 3D landscapes.

Hermann Trebsche & Ballons & Ballons; Konstantin Schmölzer, Verdarium

Visit the collaboration between Austrian designer Hermann Trebsche and the store Ballons & Ballons, selling – surprise! – balloons and party accessories. Look out also for landscape gardeners Verdarium who have teamed up with young Austrian designer Konstantin Schmölzer.

Lastly on the Passionswege is the collaboration between two Italian designers LucidiPevere and WOKA, who produce 19th and 20th century lighting; the company is best known for its lamps from Art Nouveau and the Wiener Werkstätte eras. Focusing on brass, highly valued as a metal alloy in making lamps, as well as its similarity to gold, LucidiPevere has created an installation in honour of the golden yellow material and its potential.

Image credits: Ecolucy © Manfred Pichler, Patrycja Domanska & Tostmann Trachten © Rüdiger Andorfer

Vienna Design Week runs September 30 to October 09 2011.

Freshly Baked, Vera Wiedermann, Bäckerei Frühbauer, Darwingasse 23, 1020 Wien, October 01-10 2011

ecoLUCY – Paper lighting objects, Vienna University of Technology, Zumtobel Lichtforum Wien, Jasomirgottstraße 3-5, 1010 Wien, September 30 – October 21 2011

Tomás Alonso at the Wiener Silber Manufactur, Spiegelgasse 14, 1010 Wien, September 30 – October 08 2011

Philippe Malouin at J. & L. Lobmeyr, Kärntnerstraße 26, 1010 Wien

Tomas Kral at the Mühlbauer Hutmanufaktur, Seilergasse 10, 1010 Wien, September 30 – October 08 2011

Patrycja Domanska at Tostmann Trachten, Schottengasse 3A, 1010 Wien, September 30 – October 08 2011

Uli Budde at A.E. Köchert Juweliere, Neuer Markt 15, 1010 Wien, September 30 – October 08 2011

Hermann Trebsche at Ballons & Ballons, Ballons & Ballons, Taborstraße 98, 1020 Wien, September 30 – October 07 2011

Konstantin Schmölzer at Verdarium, Praterstraße 1, 1020 Wien, September 30 – October 08 2011

LucidiPevere at WOKA Lamps Vienna, Singerstraße 16 und Weihburggasse 10-12, 1010 Wien, September 30 – October 08 2011

LCF College Shop, Kingly Court, London

Anna Zeuner — Tue, 27 Sep 2011 18:17:20 +0000

Silvia Timborova/ John Brunswick/ Ya-Chiao (Rexy) Sung © Sean Michael

The London College of Fashion launched its very first pop-up shop in Kingly Court, Carnaby Street earlier this month, offering a unique range of one-off creations by a group of graduates from the past five years.

On daily rotation, the stock includes everything from womenswear and menswear to accessories, footwear and fashion illustrations. To the unknowing eye, this is just another one of the independent boutique stores that occupy Kingly Court, with cool, calm decor and an emphasis on personal service. All items are relatively affordable, priced from just £20 to £400 and have been specially selected by a buying team that includes Angela Quaintrell formerly of Liberty’s. Each comes complete with tags signed by the designers and with statements of authenticity.

LCF College Shop © Lora Hodridge

When ARTS THREAD visited, we were particularly taken by several shoe collections including a range of feminine leather women’s sandals and boots by Fanny Audrey Agulhon, Chan Jung Kim’s bold futuristic collection and Nattaphon Sampataphakdee geometric men’s shoes. We also loved dainty accessories by Silvia Cimborova – the overall quality of all the items on sale was really high and we were impressed with how Silvia had managed to create such experimental pieces without compromising wearability. We’ve no doubt that we were in the company of rising stars.

Stock also includes items from more established designers who had studied at LCF, including William Tempest, Ada Zanditon, Beatrice Boyle and Hasan Jejazi.

On the counter is an iPad digital brochure on which you can browse stock from all the designers taking part – so despite the stock rotation you needn’t worry about missing out. You can also book appointments with the designers to discuss private commissions.

The shop closes its doors on the 28th September, so you better hurry! For more information visit the London College of Fashion website.

New Designers 2011 Part 1: Jewellery & Metalwork

Rebecca Sutherland-Young — Sat, 02 Jul 2011 10:30:06 +0000

Carolyn Kinnaird, Edinburgh College of Art

ARTS THREAD takes a look at a selection of the jewellery and precious metalwork on display at New Designers this year.

Carolyn Kinnaird from Edinburgh College of Art takes inspiration from the world around her, translating observational drawings and photographs into abstract lines, colour and geometric shapes. Combined with Carolyn’s love of organic and feminine jewellery, the result is delicate materials such as wool and thread on wire structures preserved through the use of resin.

Hanna Nielsen, Middlesex University

Middlesex University’s Hanna Nielsen showcased her project Sound Wear, with a series of hats and jewellery created from fine wood, with stringed earpieces that allow you to create and hear your own music through plucking the strings.

Cecilia Wong, Central Saint Martins

Cecilia Wong from Central Saint Martins has always seen Marie Antoinette as one of her favourite historical idols and her collection is inspired by the French queen and the Rococo era. Lace necklaces and bracelets adorned with tiny pastel flowers are delicate and fragile, made from precious silver, metal clay and polymer clay.

Alexandra Tosto, London Metropolitan University

Alexandra Tosto from London Metropolitan University explains that she ‘likes to give her pieces an intrinsic meditative quality through depth, visual geometric rhythm or phyical movement, to obtain a strong interaction between the piece and its wearer’. Shown above is the colourful Rhythmical Dimensions necklace in nylon, brass and silver and World in my Hand – silver hand jewellery that invites the wearer to play and interact with their jewellery.

Daniela Cardillo, National College of Art and Design Dublin

Daniela Cardillo, a graduate of the National College of Art and Design Dublin, is ‘concerned with finding beauty in death and discard. I’m intrigued by the components that make up a creature. When an animal dies, these parts lose their sense of function, and can then be studied and appreciated for their true aesthetics. Each piece is individually hand crafted, using traditional Victorian hair weaving techniques. The bones are electroformed and then goldplated, encasing individual relics of past lives.’

Jessica Ruth Howarth, Duncan of Jordanstone College of Art and Design

Duncan of Jordanstone College of Art and Design’s Jessica Ruth Howarth has created a a colourful jewellery collection A House of Jewels that can be arranged together to form small miniature houses that can be taken apart and used as individual items. Jessica was inspired by a trip in India, and it is the vibrant colour and pattern that come over in the designs.

Kerri Manktelow, Sheffield Hallam University

Kerri Manktelow from the Metalwork & Jewellery course at Sheffield Hallam University explains: ‘My desire was to create silver pouring vessels that intrigue and surprise the user, the focus of each being the spout. The design and surface finish of each of the spouts aims to manipulate the flow of liquid, creating playful drama and stimulate conversation at the table.’ Shown above is the Water Flood vessel whose wide brim creates a fast cascading flow of liquid as it is poured and also the Oil and Vinegar Mingle – the vessel has two sections one for oil and one for vinegar, as it pours the two liquids mingle together to create a vinegrette.

Malin Ohlsson, Bucks New University

Malin Ohlsson from Bucks New University has created a tea set in silver embedded in a soft, huggable silicone so that it ‘feels like a nice warm hug from a lovely grandmother.’ In addition, the Water Jug, above left, is raised in fine silver, inspired by the womb, a pregnant woman and a proud duck and on the right, a small coco jug model rapid prototyped in a nylon material. The tea towel wrapped around it works both as handle and ‘tea cosy’.

Samantha Hesford, Birmingham City University

Birmingham Institute of Art & Design BCU’s Samantha Hesford has a fascination for tactile materials and has created a collection of vibrant wearable pieces made from foam clay, polstyrene balls, silicone tube, steel wire and silver casting nuggets. Samantha says: ‘The softness and curves are appealing aspects of my forms as are the texture, vibrant colour and over all composition. Each of my pieces are made entirely by hand, resulting in them being completely unique.’

Nicola Walster, Gray's School of Art RGU

Nicola Walster from Gray’s School of Art RGU has created a range of vessels in earthy colours inspired by both land and sea. ‘My Degree Show pieces are based on natural forms and my interpretation of the elements all around us in Scottish nature. I aimed to utilise the pure colours and qualities of each material through traditional craft methods.’

Inspiration from the shape of bulbs, pine cones, nuts and seeds are translated into contemporary jewellery homeware items, adding decoration using techniques such as horse hair ‘raku’. ‘I lay materials such as horse hair and feathers on to the pot surfaces whilst they were still hot which transferred the imprint creating an unusual design.’ Nicola’s pieces also include decoration cast from twigs and other materials from the forest floor cast in silver and brass.

Carolyn Kinnaird
Hanna Nielsen
Cecilia Wong
Daniela Cardillo
Jessica Ruth Howarth
Kerri Manktelow
Malin Ohlsson
Samantha Hesford

New Designers 2011: Part 1 Winners

Zoe Duke & Rebecca Sutherland-Young — Wed, 29 Jun 2011 19:02:00 +0000

Filipa Oliveira, Duncan of Jordanstone: University of Dundee - Goldsmiths Company Jewellery Award

The first week’s winners at New Designers have started to take place and include the winner of the New Designers Goldsmiths’ Company award for Jewellery which went this year to Filipa Oliveira a jewellery designer and maker from Duncan of Jordanstone College of Art & Design.

With delicate handmade pieces of silverware; gold-plated and oxidised necklaces, brooches and rings, Filipa uses traditional techniques that explore intricate filigree twisting. Inspired by historic methods of making, Filipa’s jewellery brings the past forward into a contemporary look with her chunky yet feminine pieces.

Bryony Jackson, Bucks New University - Goldsmiths Company Silversmithing Award

Bryony Jackson from Bucks New University won the New Designer Goldsmiths’ Company award for Silversmithing with her sophisticated elongated candlesticks. Inspired by the idea of movement, each design comes as a mirrored pair and sit alongside Bryony’s similarly refined single rose holders in silver.

Elizabeth Humble - One Year On Award

The One Year On Award Part 1 went to Elizabeth Humble for her androgynous jewellery directed by the edgy landscapes of her home country Scotland. Understated yet abstract pieces of gold and silverware explore the hidden depths of the land, layering strips of silver together into angular forms.

Laura Daley, UCA Farnham- British Contract Furnishing Association Award

The winner of The New Designers British Contract Furnishing Association Award went to Laura Daley from UCA Farnham for her innovative reflection on London. Creating textile pieces that imitate the lighting across the city’s central hotspots, Laura’s work translates lighting from the Houses of Parliament into mustard yellows as well as hot pinks and electric blue against black.

Henrietta Scholes, Bath School of Art & Design - Graham & Brown Award

Henrietta Scholes of Bath School of Art and Design won the New Designers Graham & Brown Award for her work which is inspired by the concept of creating a ‘new lace.’ With beautiful and enchanting textiles, her work plays with the qualities of light, transparency and the layering of white on white surfaces.

Carrie Osborne, Leeds College of Art & Design - Tigerprint Award

Carrie Osborne from Leeds College of Art & Design won the Tigerprint Award for her fun playful illustrations. Carrie’s work included busy prints of retro-style doodles of Pac-Man, peace signs, Rebok trainers and other classic items from the 90s. Other prints were bold bright florals that had a kitsch feel to them.

BA (Hons) Artist Blacksmithing & BA (Hons) Contemporary Applied Arts, Hereford College of Art - Best Stand Award

Hereford College of Art’s BA (Hons) Artist Blacksmithing & BA (Hons) Contemporary Applied Arts won the New Designers Best Stand award. The judges noted that the courses ‘created an amazing exhibition out of such an unusual space with little extra cost that allows the work to really shine.’

Jill Shaddock, Manchester School of Art MMU - Habitat Innvoation and Pulse Award

Jill Shaddock from Manchester School of Art MMU won both the New Designers Habitat Innovation Award and the New Designers Pulse Award for her project based on deconstructing the process of slip casting. Jill’s work in earthy tone created a sleek modern vibe. She creates unique objects that elevate a process that is normally associated with mass production into items such as sushi, salad and coffee sets, ideal for the contemporary home.

Sam Fenn Johnston, Heriot-Watt University - Harlequin Award

Sam Fenn Johnston from Heriot-Watt University, the winner of the New Designers Harlequin Award, produced beautiful digital prints in her own signature style, contrasting simplistic graphics and palettes with layers of soft geometry. Inspired by the architecture of Vortism and post war, Sam’s designs play with eco-friendly wool constructions and rich laser cut leather.

Laura Davenport, University of Huddersfield - Wilkinson Award for Commercial Surface Design

The winner of the Wilkinson Award for Commercial Surface Design went to Laura Davenport from the University of Huddersfield. Creating classic antique inspired wallpapers, Laura’s modern floral designs are playful in pastel pink, purple and yellow. With hand painted illustrations manipulated through machine print, these design could easily be applied to other furnishings around a contemporary home.

Elizabeth Humble
Filipa Oliveira
Bryony Jackson
Henrietta Scholes
Carrie Osborne
Jill Shaddock

Royal College of Art Fashion 2011

Calum Ross — Tue, 28 Jun 2011 19:18:53 +0000

Ruth Green, Royal College of Art

Year after year the Royal College of Art sets a new standard for graduate fashion shows and 2011 has been no exception!

Amongst the incredibly talented graduates was Ruth Green who specialises in women’s knitwear. Ruth has experimented with colour blocking and contrasting textiles, mixing heavy knits with sheer fabrics giving the garments a comfortable yet sexy aesthetic.

Anna Smit, Royal College of Art

Anna Smit used a striking print throughout her collection which appeared like a solar flare burning through the fabric. Anna also incorporated a rounded shoulder into her garments which created a unique silhouette. The accessories were created in collaboration with Maurice van de Stouwe (shoes) and Paul Stafford (Millinery / Eyewear).

Hannah Taylor, Royal College of Art

Hannah Taylor specialises in men’s knitwear and was not afraid to experiment with some unconventional shapes in her graduate collection. Her pieces cross-reference the dangers in both the jungle (such as wild animals) and in an urban environment (bank robbers).

Katie Hildebrand, Royal College of Art

Katie Hildebrand collaborated with Amelia Mullins and Andrew Kenny to create the textiles and print design for her graduate collection. The chic and highly wearable collection featured several pieces with beautiful embroidered detailing.

Aleksandra Domanevskaya, Royal College of Art

Aleksandra Domanevskaya’s menswear collection featured some beautiful silk textiles with striped and checkered patterns which she created in collaboration with Fiona Brooker.

Anna Schwamborn, Royal College of Art

Anna Schwamborn’s dramatic collection was full of natural earthy tones. Specialising in women’s accessories, Anna also created a series of handbags made from leather and animal horns.

Cherie Newing, Royal College of Art

Cherie Newing integrated knitwear and sportwear for her menswear collection. Cherie used bright and garish colours to produce her knitted tracksuits and elongated ankle-length jumpers.

Sarah Seaton-Burridge, Royal College of Art

Sarah Seaton-Burridge’s collection was elegant and sophisticated. The monochromatic garments were well tailored and featured several laser-cut layers hanging over the clothing.

Philipp Schueller, Royal College of Art

Philipp Schueller channeled 1960′s psychedelia and late 80′s rave culture in his extroverted collection. Philipp incorporated a bright, neon colour palette alongside a variety of mixed textiles including plastic and fake fur.

Amelie Marciasini, Royal College of Art

Amelie Marciasini was another graduate who enjoyed experimenting with furs, dying them in a variety of fluorescent colours for her textured womenswear collection.

Yejon Park, Royal College of Art

Yejon Park’s menswear collection featured deconstructed tailoring and monochromatic textiles.

Paul Stafford, Royal College of Art

Paul Stafford, who specialises in millinery, created a collection complete with wide brimmed hats which connoted the image of a grieving widow. Several of the hats merged into the garment becoming a full head-to-toe piece.

Nicola Morgan, Royal College of Art

Nicola Morgan used some spectacular beaded detailing in her tailored collection. In many of the garments, Nicola has exposed the model’s flesh by cutting some strange and unconventional shapes into the fabric.

For information on all the fashion graduates visit the RCA website.

Image Credits: Photography by Dominic Tschudin

Institut Français de la Mode 10th Anniversary

Kara Stanton — Wed, 20 Apr 2011 14:13:42 +0000

Institut Français de la Mode 10th Anniversary

Intitut Français de la Mode is a school known for giving young designers the opportunity to get in touch with the real world, as well as teaching them a sense of craftsmanship combined with technical design. On April 14 the IFM put together an evening called 10 Years of Fashion & Accessory Design – celebrating 10 years since the school first opened, as well as highlighting the future designers’ work in front of many potential colleagues from the fashion industry.

Institut Français de la Mode 10th Anniversary

Divided into two parts, the first section of the night was titled ‘The Valorization of the IFM’s Creative Potential’, and it was filled with pieces from IFM’s designers that will go on sale in 2011, these included bags for Le Tanneur, glasses for Chantal Thomass and shoes for the Carel Label. Following this was a part of the evening entitled ‘The Valorication of Heritage’ – which focused on the people who have contributed to the worldwide identity of IFM. 20 accessorized looks were exhibited around the venue and were part of collaborations with Musée Galliera; medals were also given out to the referential contributors and historical partners of the IFM.

Institut Français de la Mode 10th Anniversary

The evening was followed by a party hosted with Standard Magazine – based on the idea that fashion in France is highly capable of attracting young talent as well as being able to renew itself and outshine the rest thanks to the use of design over the past 10 years of IFM. During the exhibition guests were given an illustrated publication based on the 10 years of design, with 1500 issues printed to be shared out to visitors and designers from 2000 to the present day.

“Design at the IFM can be summed up in a few words: selection of the best talent worldwide, French emulsion and international influence”. By encouraging designers to push their own boundaries, IFM is continuing to create designers with true passion and talent – by combining their strong individuality, IFM helps create a ‘pathway of stimulation’ for today’s creative generation

Image credits: photography by Marion Leflour.

Institut Français de la Mode

The Reykjavík Fashion Festival, Reykjavík Art Museum

Kara Stanton — Mon, 11 Apr 2011 13:59:40 +0000

Vera Thordardottir, A/W 2011/2

The Reykjavík Fashion Festival (RFF) took place March 31 to April 03 at Reykjavík Art Museum. Now in its second season, the festival was host to some of Iceland’s unique designers showing their collections of accessories and garments as well as an exciting mixture of music and culture from the various venues around the city.

Opening the show on the first evening was the talented Vera Thordardottir whose designs have been worn by the likes of Lady Gaga. This was Vera’s launch collection at RFF and was inspired by the way the world changes from day to night. By using Swarovski crystal, silver wires and black silicon, Thordardottir was able to show “the way different objects chance with low reflection of light, how the eye adjusts in a moment of confusion when you walk from a bright daylight into a pitch black room”. The collection was filled with black and beige tones, highlighting the contrast between dark and light, combined with lace detailing to capture the idea of creating shadows.

Shadow Creatures, A/W 2011/2

Shadow Creatures, a relatively new label created by sister duo Sólveig Ragna and Gunnhildur Edda Gudmundsdottir, showed their second series of designs at RFF, with a collection inspired by “ancient Nepalese patterns, philosophical animalism, mortal imagination and cool sensuality”.

Models filled the runway in earthy tones of pinks, browns and beige – with knotted details on the clothes and in their hair, perfect for the autumn seasons. Other inspiration includes the concept of darkness – the way in which tales are created through the images made out of the shadows, “it is the space between this terror and temptation the Shadow Creatures finds the inspiration for its mysterious spectrum of unique apparel”.

Eyglo, A/W 2011/2

Inspired by the beauty of an x-ray during a trip to hospital, Eyglo presented her work for the first time at Reykjavík Fashion Festival. Eyglo created her own label after graduating from the Icelandic Academy of Arts in 2006 and was soon interning for Bernhard Willhelm. With a collection that took inspiration from x-rays and “holes in funny places”, the runway was coloured in shades of metallic blues and greens, as well as greys and blacks; a combination of knitwear, blazers, shift dresses and leggings that had a somewhat futuristic yet classic theme running throughout.

When asked about what we could see from her in the future, she simply answered, “My next collection is inspired by dinosaurs. I won’t say more than that…”

Sonja Bent, A/W 2011/2

For her second season at RFF, Sonja Bent moved away from spring’s menswear shirt collection inspired by old fashion gangsters and this time showed a collection for men, women and children titled ‘Inspired by Polkadots’.

When asked about her inspiration behind the collection, Sonja explains “I love polka dots & bow ties myself and my aim was to make a chic colourful cardigan collection for men & women. I recently added a new version for children too, unbelievably cute”. Her soft, knitted garments are full of pastel blues, oranges and pinks; combined with button and bow tie details to give them a quirky and playful edge.

Kron by KRONKRON, A/W 2011/2

Kron by KRONKRON was another designer to make a RFF apparel debut this season. A natural yet bright toned colour scheme was dominant in this collection, as inspiration was taken from the “joy of creativity and their love of colours”. Originally shoe designers, Hugrún Árnadóttir and her husband Magni’s talents have progressed to accessories and most recently clothing and they made sure their models strutted down the runway smiling, in flowing dresses, jumpers and printed tights – whilst 1920’s Charleston themed music created a fun background.

Rey, A/W 2011/2

Rebekka Jónsdóttir founded Rey in 2009, after graduating from the Fashion Institute of Design and Merchandising in Los Angeles and this season she showed a line that was focusing on draping and inspired by the darkness of Icelandic winter. The theme for the collection was “sculptured asymmetry from dark places with plenty of texture”. Rebekka’s designs are very structural and create silhouettes reminiscent of the shapes created in shadows, with wool and silk being the dominant materials to create the emphasis on fluidity.

E-label, A/W 2011/2

With a biker-esque theme, studded leggings and loose fitting dresses – E-label hit the runway at RFF. Launched in 2007 E-label was created “to empower women by offering them a range of designer products that are practical, comfortable, affordable and can easily be transformed from day to night.” E-label gave power dressing a new look at RFF this year, with fringed leotards and lace jumpsuits, all softened by the feminine strip of pink hair and pastel makeup.

Andersen & Lauth, A/W 2011/2

Andersen & Lauth were the first designers to show on the second night. With ‘Atelier’ they celebrate their love for handmade and unique pieces in a collection filled with embroidered dresses and lace capes, all toughened up with leather jackets and biker boots. Inspired by the women of the 1920’s, this season focuses on the change in women’s fashion and how women could find their own identities. The idea of the revolution of fashion is what the designers wanted to achieve in their collection, it was seen as a romantic journey through time and the designers say, “We simply think that the women of the world deserve beautiful things made with love and true passion.”

Hildur Yeoman, A/W 2011/2

Hildur Yeoman is another designer on her second season at RFF. However, this time she showed a collection of clothes as well as accessories. With a passion to create a fantasy world, Hildur took inspiration from “rebellious girls, the twisted sisters of society, both fictional and historical, as well as Mallory from Natural Born Killers and Cherie Currie from The Runaways”, and created illustrations that are reflective of her unique ability not to get lost with technology (all of her pieces are hand drawn and her accessories are made by hand).

When asked about her work Hildur Yeoman told us “They are not meant to be straight or perfect, I love the imperfections in life, I think the little imperfections and accidents in a drawing or in a print are the ones that make it unique and special.”

Image credits – GLAMOUR The Concept Boutique

The Reykjavík Fashion Festival