Graduate Fashion Week is always a hot-bed for talent and this year’s was no exception. Held at Earl’s Court, the 21st annual event showcased the work of over 1,000 young designers from across the UK. On Wednesday the show came to a triumphant close with the GFW Gala evening and awards ceremony.

Charlotte Cohen, Kingston University

What a way to end the third day of shows at Graduate Fashion Week. Kingston University showcased a whirlwind extravaganza of sheer cut outs and hair raising fabric and cut innovation. Intricately woven trompe l’eoil intarsias and silhouette distorting shapes graced the models in collections that enhanced unusual aspects of the figure in an outside the box manner.

Charlotte Cohen launched the show with her extreme nod to the girl-does-gym movement with an intense, anatomically inspired sportswear collection. Heavyweight performance enhancing fabrics cocooned the models in a strong colour palette of tonal greys, nudes and whites, highlighted by a dash of fluro yellow. Standout looks were complemented with strong accessories that included an oversize circular reinvention of the granny bag-on-wheels.

Andrew Grahams, Kingston University

‘I am not a gentleman. I am a mental man’ was the concept for menswear graduate Andrew Grahams’ collection. A series of bi-polar short suits and a re-imagination of the crisp white shirt created a base for the colour palette to really shine through from the white canvas.  Graham really pulled the fun from the mental with his placement of the Rorschach ink blot test-esque prints morphed around the heavily structured garments, crossing seams with ease.

Lucie Halley, Kingston University

There was a strong distinctive grain to the looks from graduate Lucie Halley. The forward thinking collection focused on the details in the form of washed out printed linings in the predominantly white line up, as well as teal colour pop shoe covers. Heavy parachute silks creates innovative organic silhouettes, and washed out torn ink prints, complemented by translucent plastic enclosed the form in cut out body suits.

Louise Ross, Kingston University

Louise Ross left little to be desired with her heavily pleated and draped calico-esque creations. Half and half seemed to be the trend with the floral print injected collection, the juxtaposition of heavily exaggerated pleats to the subtle print, in the form of half bias cut ball gowns and austere high neck corseted affairs made for a stunningly unique outcome. Inspired by a series of photographs by Andreé Kertész, aptly titled ‘distortion’, it is clear to see the translation through the line up.

Penelope Tucker, Kingston University

The spirit of the crowds raised when the first look from Penelope Tucker stopped at the end of the runway. Helium took centre stage with an array of fully inflated accessories and headpieces which hung suspended above the garments and in the form of accessories. Inflated outerwear and cocooning hoods in stone greys juxtaposed the lemon pop of paint splatter. It was all about man elevated, the heavyweight collection felt almost expedition-esque; man does the mountains.

Alice Maughan, Kingston University

Alice Maughan closed the show with her Maria Von Trapp meets cat lady collection. Heavily curtain inspired creations, the final look even including the rail, simply proved how a particularly strong collection can originate from anything. Sofa jackets, rushed runner hems and boxy silhouettes were displayed in an array of dull-lived-in in pastels. Cat illustrations were worked into pale baroque prints in the line up that left little to be desired.

Image credit: Simon Armstrong, simonarmstrong.com

Anya Edwards, UCA Epsom

At the Epsom show UCA students displayed an eclectic, energetic display of pure imagination. A wide variety of fabrics, materials and techniques were involved in each collection giving each student a unique style.

Anya Edwards began the show with a strong use of patterned wool jackets layered with metallic hemmed embellished dresses. A promising entrance to the show as well as a strong finish with another hopeful Mariapia Mineo.

James Kelly, UCA Epsom

James Kelly created an eerie feel to the proceedings with the ‘Psycho’ soundtrack playing alongside, a dark collection followed. Sharp shapes created with woolen capes and trench coats engulfing the models petite frame.

Irina Voinea, UCA Epsom

Another favourite representing menswear was Irina Voinea’s Mexican themed illustrative t-shirts complimented with printed suits. A flurry of colour and print were seen throughout the catwalk, a lot less loose materials were used and more tailored and volumised garments were seen.

James Walker, UCA Epsom

James Walker was the breath taker, with an accordion shaped dress expanded with leather and zips. Volumised shoulders with strong checks and brown hardened leather. The exaggerated hips and shoulders with circular detailing gave an essence of character to each garment.

Mariapia Mineo, UCA Epsom

The finish for Epsom ended on a high note with Mariapia Mineo’s striking all red collection using patent detailing on cape like dresses infused with tailored jackets, Mineo clearly has a strong eye for detail as each look was carefully decided upon. An impressive show for Epsom, with many hopefuls secured from this university.

UCA Epsom portfolio pages on ARTSTHREAD

Image credit: Simon Armstrong, simonarmstrong.com

Men in dresses and re-imagined tailoring reigned supreme at Birmingham City University, with notable mentions to structural and quirky knits. Birmingham’s students used accessories with great aplomb, making them key features of many collections, whilst their shoes were amongst the best I’ve seen. On the clothes front the materials used were innovative and inspiring and the shapes pushed boundaries.

Textiles and embellishment key at Salisbury, the knitwear and textural elements of many of Salisbury’s collections were leant a tactical focus.

Bath Spa successfully used spotlighting to create a moment of drama at the beginning of each collection, this highlighted the strength of the many material juxtapositions that featured heavily. In contrast the knitwear and textural elements of many of Salisbury’s collections were leant a tactical focus.

Astounding show from the international students this year, ESMOD Berlin opened the show with an eclectic mix of hardened leather and clean palettes. Strong outcomes from each university, Berlin and Milan I can safely say had the most exciting prospects.

A strong focus on print and colour to complement Rochester’s strength in the field of creative cutting contributed to an eclectic mix of both mens and womenswear collections on day two of Graduate Fashion Week.

Nottingham Trent’s Graduate Fashion Week show went back to basics and concentrated on the techniques of fashion design and how they can be developed to create new and exciting ideas. The pattern cutting was exquisite, the knitwear was sophisticated and technical and the show as a whole evoked a sense of class.

Global stories were reflected in Northbrook College’s graduate show at Graduate Fashion Week yesterday.