During London Fashion Week, the creative charity FAD (Fashion Awareness Direct) gave 25 young, up-and-coming fashion designers from London and Manchester the incredible opportunity to produce and show their designs in a runway show in front of industry professionals from the likes of Marie Claire and River Island.

The designers were selected from 100 young creatives who participated in FAD’s Fashion Futures 2 workshop earlier in the year. The finalists then attended FAD Summer School at the University of East London where, under the watchful eye of tutors and student mentors, were given 5 days to construct their designs.

The top prize went to Sabine Bindere from Barking & Dagenham College, London who was awarded a two week design placement working with FAD retail partner George at Asda. Sabine’s winning design was an edgy yet wearable double hooded dress which featured a red and grey graffiti print which the young designer created herself.

2011 FAD Junior Awards Winner, Sabine Bindere

Runner-up Yasemin Cakli from City & Islingston College was awarded a two week placement with Marks & Spencer for her 60s inspired bright orange jumpsuit and plastic cape designs. In addition, Gemma Halliwell from Bury College, Manchester was awarded the Commercial Design award, while Francesca Espinosa-Baster from St. Philomena’s Catholic School for Girls, London took home the Innovative Design & Cut award.

2011 FAD Junior Awards Runner-up, Yasemin Cakli

For further information visit the FAD website.

Ninela Ivanova

Now in its third year, Kingston’s Fashion Innovation MA showcased at Vauxhall Fashion Scout as part of their schedule for September’s London Fashion Week.

Set in a majestic space on the first floor of the Freemason’s Hall in Covent Garden, the nine students presented work exploring themes from sustainability and biotechnology to human psychology. The static display was accompanied by a digital catwalk presentation.

At the centre of the show was Ninela Ivanova’s ‘greenhouse’ of wearable moulds and fungi inspired textiles. Petri dishes of her own cultivated mould recipes were displayed next to Mycelium inspired dresses made from laser cut velvet and silicone. Ivanova challenges the perception of mould as something ugly. Her aim is to use the microbiology of moulds to create sustainable and beautiful textiles.

Stefanie Nieuwenhuyse

Another ARTS THREAD favourite was Dutch designer Stefanie Nieuwenhuyse who presented her sustainable collection ‘Biomimicry’, created for bio-waste firm InCrops Enterprise Hub. Made from discarded plywood, laser cut diamonds are applied to organic, unbleached cotton through painstaking gluing and hand stitching. The result is something akin to luxury reptile skin, equally durable but also eco-friendly. Surprisingly fluid in their appearance her collection ranges from a sculptural wooden corset and maxi dress to handcrafted shoes and neckpieces.

Marie Elise Llagas

In ‘Reveal Conceal’, Marie Elise Llagas strips her womenswear collection back to its purest state to create minimal yet powerful silhouettes. Oversized letterbox and abstract acrylic shapes are a key element, applied to block, conceal and highlight areas of the female body. A signature colour blended dress inspired by 1960’s artist Craig Kaufman plays in contrast to a palette which is otherwise predominantly black and white.

Elaine Tsai/ Stephanie Jane Price

’276.2′ by Stephanie Jane Price takes inspiration from the work of Wayne McGregor’s Random Dance Academy. Her all black womenswear collection draws its inspiration from the idea that the garment becomes part of the environment, where the body finds a place to be entangled and manoeuvre. Layered silhouettes combine free flowing chiffons with restrictive leather and heavy draping.

Han Gu/ Faye Gascoigne

Han Gu’s Chinese grandmother used to create fantastical origami dragon boats and swans from folded paper triangles. This recollection inspires ‘Triangular Memories’. Stark silhouettes are made beautiful with intricate collars, neckpieces and details created from layered triangles of iridescent PVC. Leather combines with chiffon and monochrome geometric prints to resulting in an edgy but feminine collection.

A multi-sensory project by Fay Gascoigne for perfume company Givaudan focuses on the power of smell to induce emotion, and in particular the scent of lavender. During WW1 Soldiers would impregnate letters with lavender oil to send home to their loved ones as well as using its healing properties on bruises and cuts. Drawing inspiration from the structure of lavender pods she creates bulbous jackets from flower camouflage prints. Highlights also include a wax like torso piece scented with lavender oil layered over a chiffon dress.

Traumnovelle from Wolfgang Jarnach on Vimeo.

Two students showcased fashion films. The first Wolfgang Jarnach is inspired by Arthur Schnitzler’s novella ‘Traumnovelle’ (Dream Story). It describes the tale of one man’s journey through the hidden depths of his own psyche. Set in fin-de-siècle Vienna, the film explores the repressed desires, fantasies, and passions underneath the surface of a seemingly happy marriage.

Two actors model Jarnach’s collection of men’s and womenswear in a palette of midnight blue, black and wine. The clothes interchange with the protagonists’ mood; from demure artisan tailoring to more provocative silhouettes, such as a silk shirt dress with leather holster, as emotions reach their dangerous climax.

Inolé's Fashion Lens, Inolé Crockart

Kingston MA Fashion on ARTS THREAD

Ninela Ivanova
Stefanie Nieuwenhuyse
Marie Elise Llagas
Han Gu
Faye Gascoigne
Stephanie Jane Price
Wolfgang Jarnach
Inolé Crockart

Silvia Timborova/ John Brunswick/ Ya-Chiao (Rexy) Sung © Sean Michael

The London College of Fashion launched its very first pop-up shop in Kingly Court, Carnaby Street earlier this month, offering a unique range of one-off creations by a group of graduates from the past five years.

On daily rotation, the stock includes everything from womenswear and menswear to accessories, footwear and fashion illustrations. To the unknowing eye, this is just another one of the independent boutique stores that occupy Kingly Court, with cool, calm decor and an emphasis on personal service. All items are relatively affordable, priced from just £20 to £400 and have been specially selected by a buying team that includes Angela Quaintrell formerly of Liberty’s. Each comes complete with tags signed by the designers and with statements of authenticity.

LCF College Shop © Lora Hodridge

When ARTS THREAD visited, we were particularly taken by several shoe collections including a range of feminine leather women’s sandals and boots by Fanny Audrey Agulhon, Chan Jung Kim’s bold futuristic collection and Nattaphon Sampataphakdee geometric men’s shoes. We also loved dainty accessories by Silvia Cimborova – the overall quality of all the items on sale was really high and we were impressed with how Silvia had managed to create such experimental pieces without compromising wearability. We’ve no doubt that we were in the company of rising stars.

Stock also includes items from more established designers who had studied at LCF, including William Tempest, Ada Zanditon, Beatrice Boyle and Hasan Jejazi.

On the counter is an iPad digital brochure on which you can browse stock from all the designers taking part – so despite the stock rotation you needn’t worry about missing out. You can also book appointments with the designers to discuss private commissions.

The shop closes its doors on the 28th September, so you better hurry! For more information visit the London College of Fashion website.

JW Anderson A/W 2011/2

As ever, menswear at London fashion week is always incredibly innovative. Even if the drizzle outside was there to hamper the Somerset House surroundings. J.W.Anderson showcased a slick performance of uber cool menswear for A/W 11. A collection that focused on Japanese aesthetics and kimono silhouettes, Anderson created a dense and ghoulish preview for the winter season.

The first look featured smart white shirting paired with a cashmere crew neck that was creatively tied in a boxy cut-out around the thigh. Knitwear transitioned to a cobweb mohair jumper dense at the arm and smart chunky knit layering in shades of lapis and cerulean.

JW Anderson A/W 2011/2

The Oriental undertones seeped through with kimono floor length skirting clasped at the waist with skinny leather belts. It was understated androgyny; with graphic monochrome parallels between the crisp white shirting and the dense cotton-mix skirting that cascaded down the form.

Heritage paisley prints reappeared in vibrant fuschia shades harking 70s retro. Paisley also featured on crisp cigarette pants and full in a bright cobalt. It was Mods and Rockers, with one look featuring a beautifully cut white leather biker jacket teamed with khaki tailored pants. Traditional check tweeds consumed country jackets, only modernised with sheepskin hood linings and teamed with teddy bear jumpers in hues of oatmeal and porridge.

JW Anderson A/W 2011 Collections

And the shoes, oh those shoes! Transitioning on from his Spring 2011 footwear which featured jagged embellishments of Swarovski crystals, for winter mohair rained. Worker boots were decorated with a lush mane of horsehair. Evening wear for men isn’t usually overtly euphoric, but for the Anderson man it came in giant engulfing kimono shapes in rich midnight blue hues. These were teamed with glistening sequin jumpers and smart tailored blazers.

Whoever said men can’t be glamorous?

Image credits: photography: Courtesy of catwalking.com

J.W.Anderson

KTZ A/W 2011

KTZ or Kokon To Zai took to Somerset House to show their newest collection this season. Male and female models took to the catwalk to showcase the eclectic menagerie of street style.

KTZ A/W 2011

Many of the looks that were presented were layered, whether it’s black and white striped shorts layered on top of yellow patterned trousers or a massive fur jacket over a knee length black and white patterned jumper.

The collection is distinctly 80s, with it’s crazy patterns and loud colourings. Pieces came in danger red with electric blues. The main colour that ran throughout was black, interpolated with black and white striped and orange patterned pieces sown into the pieces. The pieces almost took up a patchwork style effect, with different patterned materials layered on top of black deconstructed pieces.

KTZ A/W 2011

The silhouettes were large and loose fitting, featuring leather pieces that ran throughout the collection. Fur also made an appearance within the latter looks. Female accessories were also poignant and a stand out during the show, super large plastic bangles adorned the model’s arms in the electric colours mentioned, perfect for spring/summer.

The collection is eclectic yet extremely vibrant, making it stand out for the winter months. It’s also a perfect combination of smarter pieces, combined with more causal pieces making it an ultimate combination of wearable street style.

James Long, Elliott Atkinson and Simone Rocha A/W 2011 at Fashion East

Fashion East is a non-profit organisation set up by The Old Truman Brewery in 2000. Each season selected young designers are given a bursary, catwalk show production, PR support and expert advice, to help them launch their labels.

Although the show was originally off schedule, it is now given it’s official place on the LFW timetable. This season the show took place at the Topshop show space at the Old Billingsgate station. Menswear designer James Long, Elliot Atkinson and Simone Rocha are all showing there this season.

James Long A/W 2011 at Fashion East

Traditionally a menswear designer, James Long was first to show his foray into womenswear design. The collection featured numerous chunky knits, with crocheted detailing, matched with tight leather biker trousers. Length played a part in the show, with floor length cream cardigans and a sheer, maxi, black striped dress. Some of the pieces appeared bulky, but the inclusion of light sheer dresses and tops, gave a more airy feel to the collection.

Dresses and jumpers were given extra detailing through tasseled crochets of knit and woven multi-coloured belts. The collection remained safe with a majority ivory and black colour palette, yet injections of a danger red jumper, broke up the collection wonderfully.

Elliott Atkinson A/W 2011 at Fashion East

26 year old Elliot Atkinson was next to show his newest collection. Atkinson has created a selection of pieces created for the ultra-skinny silhouette. Focus went to tailoring throughout the collection, with tailored, slim fitting black dresses, complete with feathered chest detail. Atkinson also created high neck white shirts and a sky blue shirt complete with metal detailing at the neck.

The colour palette varied from black to a light lavender colour seen on a few of the evening pieces, such as a long sleeve, extremely-mini dress. Tartan also featured on some of the outfits, playing true to his schooling in Scotland. Furry gilet and jacket creations also completed some of the looks that paraded the catwalk.

Simone Rocha A/W 2011 at Fashion East

Last but not least came Simone Rocha, with her distinctly masculine yet feminine collection. Rocha created largely oversized boyfriend style jackets whilst also playing with sheer fabrics to create shirts, and sleeve detailing to dresses.
Rocha played with texture and fabrics by interpolating shearling, fake fur, ponyskin and thick cabled knit into her designs. Much of the tailoring shown was deconstructed, using these materials to create a panels on the back of garments.

Shiny leather work also appeared in the form a long tailored, black shirt. There was heavy use of nude tulle on many looks, effectively layering an ivory jacket and coating a cable knit dress to play with the silhouettes of the garments, so that not all was what it seems.

Images courtesy of style.com

Topshop Unique A/W 2011

The inspiration behind the new Autumn/Winter 2011 collection from Topshop Unique, was uniquely 101 Dalmatians, which plastered itself all over the new collection from Topshop designer supreme Karen Bonser.

Topshop Unique A/W 2011

The collection featured, in true dalmatian style, the traditional black and white polka dot print of the dog, on faux fur jackets and stoles which opened the show. The whole collection featured an abundance of “fur” looks and pieces, including the cuffs of a smart tailored black dress and the lapels of a black fur jacket.

The looks throughout the collection were distinctly reminiscent of the thirties, through the fur cuffed jacket and other printed, smart shift dresses, cinched at the waist with a thin leather belt. The collection’s elegant nod to this era, also held a great deal of inspiration from vintage Hollywood glamour. Some of the pieces were even emblazoned with graphics of Hollywood and the Brooklyn Bridge.

Topshop Unique A/W 2011

The collection also contained a suited and booted style, highly reminiscent of Madonna’s ‘Express Yourself’ video, through the all in one, strapped sleeve jumpsuit, along with pinstripe high waisted trousers and a dark caramel suit, with tailored ultra harem trousers.

Topshop Unique A/W 2011

The rest collection has heavy nods to the art deco designs of the thirties, which can be seen on a shift dress in black and grey with a pattern of the Brooklyn bridge, with the same pattern coming on a mustard yellow ankle length dress. The theme also continues with kitsch jumpers emblazoned with The collection appeals to many ages, through the more sophisticated fur lined vintage-esque jacket to the leopard print bomber jacket ideal for the youthful customer Topshop holds.

The whole collection is unified in it’s meaning and inspiration, following the fur throughout maintaining the dalmatian inspiration whilst throwing back to the era of Hollywood glam and art deco. The collection is very Topshop, yet also pertains an air of high fashion, which is extremely welcome for this high street brand.

www.topshop.com

Winner Milly Jackson (Nottingham Trent University) A/W 11

The 2011 F.A.D awards at Vauxhall Fashion Scout showcased a spectacular parade of innovative design from up-and-coming graduate talent. There was a whole new plethora of creativity that pioneered a new glimpse of future design aesthetics for the new decade.

This year F.A.D marked its 10th anniversary by introducing fifteen finalists during London Fashion Week. The theme was ‘to escape from the everyday into a place of wonder and distraction’. Entrants had to conjure a mini collection of two designs inspired by the given theme of ‘escapism’ with the winner receiving £2000 and an industry placement at a top fashion company. Two runner-ups would also receive ￡1000 and a placement.

Runners-Up Laura Carew-Gibson (De Montfort University) & Annie Vallis (Nottingham Trent University)

Milly Jackson, winner of this year’s prestigious award was touted as a favourite from the get-go. Looking shy and reserved as she collected her prize of £2000 and a placement at Whistles, her collection featured wondrously exaggerated doll silhouettes in a chunky felt medium.

Zebra insert prints slashed into waists and amorphous shoulders, whilst futuristic boulder plumes were cleverly placed on skirt sides. The Nottingham Trent University student voiced an animalistic quality of safari aesthetic. As the models turned, Jackson’s artisan was flaunted with modernistic bell-shaped skirts transitioning a modern female silhouette with a subtle evocation of innovative design.

Rachael Brooks (Brighton University), Qi Zhang (Edinburgh College of Art) & Kay Wilcox (Huddersfield) A/W 11

First runner-up was also a strong debut for womenswear, as Laura Carew-Gibson from De Montfort University introduced sunset hues to the catwalk. Fringing was ubiquitous throughout with sheepskin and mohair mix jackets and palm tree chinos. Laura collected her £1000 prize along with a placement at F.A.D prodigy David Koma.

Annie Vallis snagged the second runner-up award and a menswear placement at Jaegar. She opened the show with cool, graphic menswear. The student from Nottingham Trent University created desert print cape shirts and innovative rucksack inserts. Hues of russet and stone were manipulated between the mountainous prints with one outfit featuring wonderfully cut traveller shorts. The second showcased a beautifully cut sheer belted parka made from soft crinoline, buckled and utilitarian. It was a perfect showcase of menswear ingenuity.

Shabana Mahomed (Thames Valley University) A/W 11

Elsewhere, talent came from all over the country. Emily Booker, a student from Bath Spa University focused on woven prints in parachute shapes. Textile and yarn textures in hues of tangerine and copper were teamed with cute crochet bobble hats. Ashleigh Downer from the London College of Fashion draped outwear with a delicate touch, amalgamating nylon skirting and soft suede with electric fluro hues of fuchsia making for a look-at-me collection.

Pop art innovation came from Emma Clifton at Edinburgh College of Art. Silhouettes came in drip-drop shapes in bright crayon colours of sunshine yellow and cobalt blue. There was a wonderful scallop-edged skirt featured beneath a crazy fire engine red ink blot top. It was nice to see a collection full of all the frivolity of fashion.

Emma Clifton (Edinburgh College of Art) A/W 11

Kerri Goulden from the University of Salford showcased marl jersey knits with circular Perspex jewels. Draped marl jodhpurs in hues of black and sand were brandished with a graphic cosmic logo. The Edinburgh College of Art student Qi Zhang created deco print leggings beneath cute peter pan collar print shifts in duck egg blue and nude. Lucy Johnson of East London University created an autumnal collection of oversized chunky knitwear in earthy tones, featuring speckled ruched wool and leaf embellished scarfing.

Emily Booker (Bath Spa University) A/W 11

Rachael Brooks and Rachel Capper, from the University of Brighton and Manchester Metropolitan respectively, conjured up knife collared pleating. Brooks designed a wonderful jumpsuit with yellow felt and sheer texture, whilst Capper used checkerboard prints and cape blouses as a cubist motion towards distorted modernity. Kay Wilcox of Huddersfield University infused leather and nylon in bodysuits with a geometric leather cape. A dress came brandished with metallic hip embellishments adding a futuristic twist on eveningwear.

Joanna Louise Mandle (Manchester Metropolitan University) A/W 11

Print was also prominent at Ester Ndongala at the University of Salford who created zip paisley cape jackets and monochrome oversized ruching. Thames Valley student Shabana Mohamed created beautiful parachute gowns in painterly chiffon in exploding watercolour burst. And finally, Joanna Louise Mandle of Manchester Metropolitan dared to add taxidermy undertones into her collection with fun tusk headdresses and an African gold speckled blouse.

Kerri Goulden (University of Salford) & Rachael Capper (Manchester Metropolitan University) A/W 11

This was a showcase of incredible creativity. F.A.D provided a wonderful opportunity to help young people to connect with the fashion industry and to gain valuable experience for their adult careers.

F.A.D is important to the growing fashion industry and this was evident with over 100 entries from 36 colleges around the UK. It has been a platform for a whole host of prominent British design talent, not least of which F.A.D contestant David Koma, who has skyrocketed into the fashion stratosphere.

F.A.D
Vauxhall Fashion Scout

Christopher Shannon A/W 2011 Collections

For Autumn/ Winter 2011, Christopher Shannon spliced the clans of the British streets with the earthiness of global tribes. Decked out in a spectrum of black, navy, brown and soft grey, the menswear designer’s new collection reflected his core style, whilst hinting at a deep-seated desire to experiment with the limits of urban casuals.

Christopher Shannon A/W 2011 Collection

Leather-look tracksuits with ruffle features, horizontal stripe jumpers and Peruvian embroidered shirts marched down the catwalk to a booming Rihanna dance remix. The eclectic yet cohesive collection was inspired in part by the landfill culture of recycled clothes and also by a life-long hero, David Attenborough. The documentary-maker’s Human Planet series made Shannon realise how every culture has been infiltrated by the appeal of sportswear.

Christopher Shannon A/W 2011 Collection

Despite a more adventurous roll call of fabrics and influences, the range was still muted and wearable, with strong geometric prints, and easy-to-style separates. Known as much for his accessories as the clothes (he collaborates with Eastpak for bags and Pointer for shoes) Shannon’s rucksacks complemented the outfits by drawing on their quirkier details, such as the patent sheen and ethnic trimmings.

Christopher Shannon

D.GNAK by KANG.D A/W 11

Vauxhall Fashion Scout hosted the D.Gnak by Kang.D autumn/winter 11/12 show today and it did not disappoint. With tailoring taken to a whole new level, the runway was showcasing pieces that have given the classic suit a contemporary twist, filled with tweeds and unfinished hems; this collection was a combination of British influence with an East Asian twist.

Designer Dong Jun Kang launched the label back in 2006 and this is the brand’s second show at London Fashion Week. With the show given the name ‘Cracks’, the collection is inspired by the pain and sorrow of separation and the clothes reflect this by the use of a colour scheme filled with browns, beige and yellow tones. Fabrics included wool, corduroy and mesh fabrics “which express the sorrow of parting by means of some rougher textures”.

D.GNAK by KANG.D A/W 11

Pieces featured for this collection included blazers, shirts, trousers and capes – all of which wouldn’t look out of place off the catwalk, the designs are wearable yet still giving that quirky edge – even the daring pieces, such as the all-in-one suit are fully wearable for the man with a bolder style. This gives the collection uniqueness, as many of the pieces you see on the runway are not for everyday wear, but these designs are perfect for just that.

D.GNAK by KANG.D A/W 11

As quoted from the show’s press release “the garments all feature interesting fine tailoring techniques and finishings which are signatures of the D.Gnak brand, resulting in unique cuts mixed with quirky elements and raw edges” – these finishing touches included frayed edges, jackets that look like a ‘suit within a suit’ and collars with fur sprouting out of the edges – all of these elements gave each individual piece something different, yet they all worked well when put together for the end walk.

Dong Jun Kang has managed to produce some beautiful work and I think that he deserves much success, the industry should watch out for this one as I have a feeling he is going to produce some more amazing work in the seasons to come.

D.Gnak by Kang.D

Vauxhall Fashion Scout